Red wine
Red wine draws its colour, tannin and depth from the must, as the juice of red grapes is almost always pale. This selection brings together red wines from the Côte d’Or to the Priorat, made by growers who farm organically or biodynamically and work with a steady hand in the cellar.
Pinot Noir sets the tone, from the Côte d’Or to the Ahr
Pinot Noir, known as Spätburgunder in Germany, loves limestone and cool vineyard sites; if it becomes too warm, the wine loses acidity and finesse. In this selection, Burgundy takes centre stage, with deep, profound wines from the Côte de Nuits and finer, more accessible ones from the Côte de Beaune. Hubert Lignier in Morey-Saint-Denis shows just how much craftsmanship lies behind them, his wines possessing precision and length even in simpler crus. From the Ahr and the Palatinate come Spätburgunders of bright, cool fruit.
Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Teroldego bring Italy’s edges into the glass
Nebbiolo from Piedmont pairs bright fruit with firm, fine-grained tannins and unfolds notes of rose and tar over the years; Vietti in Castiglione Falletto has stood for this union of power and grace for decades. Sangiovese from Tuscany tastes of cherry and dried herbs and carries an austere streak that calls out for food. In Trentino, Foradori ages Teroldego to a deep, dark hue with cool spice, partly in amphorae.
Biodynamic work in the vineyard carries through to the glass
What unites these wines is the philosophy of small estates that farm organically or biodynamically in the vineyard and forgo additives in the cellar. Fermentation is spontaneous, sulphur is used sparingly, and some wines mature in amphora rather than wooden casks. Many are considered natural wines and taste correspondingly open and unadorned. At the table they prove versatile; lightly chilled, even powerful red wines release more aroma, and with game, dark roasts or ripe cheese, their tannins and acidity pair better than almost anything else.
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