
Phylloxera had wrought havoc here. When Loïc Barrat took over the family estate in Bethon in 2005, the vineyards of the Sézannais had lain fallow for generations. Champagne Barrat-Masson was among the pioneers who breathed new life into this forgotten corner between Épernay and Troyes – inspired by trailblazers such as Vouette & Sorbée and de Bichery in the Aube.
Today, Loïc and his wife Aurélie Masson – an oenologist and the driving force behind the organic certification – farm seven hectares on pure chalk. Ninety per cent Chardonnay, the remainder Pinot Noir. The wines mature on the lees for at least 30 months, are disgorged by hand and bottled without dosage.

