Furmint

Also known as: Šipon (Slovenia)

Furmint is the grape variety that defines Tokaj – and one that can do far more than turn sweet. The combination of pronounced acidity, dense texture and quiet spice makes it one of Europe’s most intellectual white varieties. In dry expressions, it unfolds a mineral presence that shifts between apple skin, herbs and an almost saline tension. Its natural structure allows for long ageing without ever becoming fat or intrusive.

The centre remains Tokaj in Hungary, where Királyudvar is among the most uncompromising producers. In Austria, Moric works with Furmint from Burgenland, whilst Bencze Birtók at Lake Balaton interprets the variety with a clearer, less historically laden language.