Bencze Birtók

The volcanic Szent György-hegy rises majestically above the gentle hills on the northern shore of Lake Balaton. On its southern slopes, where the vines bask in the Pannonian sun, lies István Bencze's winery. Since its founding in 2011, this ambitious winemaker has developed into one of the most exciting representatives of the Hungarian natural wine movement.

Three Vineyard Sites – Three Characters

The total of 20 hectares of vineyard are distributed across three distinctive individual sites, which Bencze has simply named after their size: "Másfél" (1.5 ha), "Hétésfél" (7.5 ha) and "Kilencésfél" (9.5 ha). Each of these parcels possesses its own personality, shaped by varying elevations between 118 and 180 metres and different soil compositions. Whilst massive basalt dominates the higher elevations, the lower areas feature clay, loess and iron-rich brown earth. This geological diversity is impressively reflected in the wines.

Biodynamics as the Heartbeat of the Winery

Biodynamic viticulture is not a marketing strategy for Bencze, but a lived conviction. The vineyard is understood as a living organism in which every element has its significance. The vines root deeply in volcanic rock, penetrate various soil layers and transport their mineral essence into the grapes. Hand harvesting often takes place in multiple passes to hit the optimal ripeness point for each batch. This meticulous preparatory work in the vineyard forms the foundation for Bencze's uncompromising natural wine philosophy.

Authentic Vinification in Amphorae

In the cellar, Bencze relies on minimal intervention. Spontaneous fermentation takes place predominantly in amphorae, which allow gentle micro-oxidation whilst preserving the purity of fruit expression. Oenological aids are largely eschewed, and the wines remain unfiltered and unfined. This purist approach demands the highest precision in vineyard work and absolute cleanliness in the cellar. The result is wines of impressive authenticity that reflect the terroir in all its complexity.

Grape Varieties Between Tradition and Spirit of Discovery

The grape variety selection at Bencze reflects his pioneering spirit. Alongside the classic Hungarian varieties Furmint, Hárslevelű and the nearly forgotten Kéknyelű, there are also international varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Particularly exciting is his work with Rózsakő, a variety bred in Badacsony only in 1975. His Autochthon combines several of these indigenous varieties into a multifaceted cuvée. Each grape variety is vinified individually, with some white wines receiving a brief skin contact to enhance their structural complexity. Ageing takes place depending on the variety in amphorae or used wooden barrels.

What István Bencze has created in just over a decade is remarkable. His wines rank among the most exciting interpretations of Badacsony terroir and have earned an excellent reputation in the international natural wine scene. For those seeking further Hungarian natural wine discoveries, Moric Hidden Treasures offers Roland Velich's selection of the finest winemakers from Tokaj, Somló and Lake Balaton.