Tasting note
Roland Velich is the man who put Blaufränkisch on the world map – a former croupier whose Moric estate James Suckling ranks among the nine best producers worldwide. With his “Hidden Treasures” project, he ventured across the border into Hungary. This Tokaj 2024 shows why it was worth it.
- Colour & appearance
- Luminous straw yellow with delicate golden reflections, clear and brilliant in the glass.
- Nose
- Far removed from any primary fruit-driven style: yellow blossoms and daisies take centre stage, behind them a multi-layered aromatic profile of pistachios and macadamia nuts, dried oregano, tarragon and nettle. Hints of beeswax and honeycomb lend depth without appearing sweet; subtle smokiness and a touch of juniper underscore its natural character. Only in the background do Nashi pear, yellow peach and yellow plum emerge.
- Palate
- Powerful and concentrated, yet clearly guided and precise. A taut mineral core runs through the palate, carried by a warm, dense mid-section. The acidity is deliberately restrained, yet provides sufficient freshness and balance. Austere, stony minerality dominates; fine nutty aromas, lingering floral notes and herbal spice lend depth and energy. Dry, at 14.0% vol.
- Finish
- Long, calm and mineral-driven, with lingering herbal spice and fine nuttiness.
- Terroir & origin
- The wine comes from Tokaj, Hungary’s most famous wine region, whose historic white wine tradition is founded on Furmint and Hárslevelü. For Velich, whose reputation rests on the old Blaufränkisch vines of Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt, the Hungarian venture is a logical step: historic regions taken seriously, without any showmanship.
- Grape variety & vinification
- Furmint provides the axis of acidity and tension, Hárslevelü (the “linden-leaved”) the floral fullness. Ageing here follows that Burgundian restraint for which Moric is known – the result is a dry white wine of character rather than an explosion of fruit.
- Food recommendations
- A wine for cuisine built around herbs and nuts: pan-fried pike perch with herb butter, veal schnitzel with parsley salad, braised artichokes or pasta with pistachio pesto. Chicken with tarragon jus or a mature Comté are also excellent matches.
- Special features
- Its distinctiveness lies in the sensory experience: a Tokaj of mineral rigour, nutty complexity and herbal spice – the rare combination of Tokaj’s classic grape pairing with the laconic stylistic language of one of Austria’s most celebrated winemakers.
