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Grenache
At a time when authenticity and terroir expression are among the most talked-about wine concepts, Garnacha/Grenache is undergoing a remarkable transformation. This grape variety, which was once labelled a workhorse, reveals an astonishing finesse under careful hands.
In Priorat, Catalonia, Dominik Huber from Terroir al Limit is leading this revolution with impressive consistency. His biodynamically produced Garnachas have an almost Burgundian elegance - light as a feather, precise, with crystalline transparency. Forget everything you thought you knew about powerful Spanish red wines. These wines whisper instead of shout, they dance instead of march.
Not far away, Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz from Familia Nin Ortiz are working with almost mathematical precision to dismantle old Garnacha clichés. Their wines - one is tempted to say: their liquid works of art - unite the power of the old vines with an almost unreal delicacy. The absence of oenological intervention does not lead to rustic results, but to wines of captivating purity.
In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France, Vincent Avril from Clos des Papes proves that even great, classic wines can benefit from biodynamic cultivation. His Grenaches are masterpieces of balance - complex and powerful, yet with an almost floating lightness.
This new generation of Garnacha wines calls for a rethink. They are living manifestos of a viticulture that combines respect for nature with an uncompromising pursuit of quality.