Lagrein

Also known as: Lagrein Dunkel (for red wine), Lagrein Kretzer (for rosé)

Lagrein belongs to South Tyrol like speck does. Genetically a child of Teroldego and Vernatsch, this autochthonous grape combines the dark, spicy character of one with the drinking pleasure of the other. The best sites lie around Bolzano, particularly in the Gries district. Here, the barren porphyry soil produces wines with an almost inky colour – violets, blackberry, a hint of bitter almond – and surprisingly velvety tannins.

At Manincor on Lake Caldaro, Lagrein finds ideal conditions: warmth from the lake, cool nights from the mountains. Pranzegg in Nalles demonstrates with minimal intervention how distinctive this variety can be. And Foradori in Trentino, who also cultivate the related Teroldego, prove that Lagrein is far more than a regional food companion.