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Pranzegg
Eight Breton dwarf sheep graze between gnarled pergola vines while Martin Gojer climbs through his steep slopes. Pranzegg Winery lies above Bolzano, where north-west exposure and cool nights produce wines with an unusual freshness.
Martin and Marion have been working biodynamically on almost four hectares since 2009. The Ouessant sheep keep the grass short and fertilise naturally. Everything ferments spontaneously in the cellar, matures in concrete and wood, without fining or filtration. The wines are named Caroline (after the daughter) or MIAU! (with a cat on the label).
More about Pranzegg
The north-west side: coolness instead of power
Anyone familiar with South Tyrolean wines expects ripe fruit and warming fullness. Pranzegg surprises with the opposite: the vineyards on the Kohlerer Berg and on the Ritten are exposed to the north-west, shaded by forest and characterised by cool downdraughts. Porphyry, basalt and granite characterise the volcanic soils. The result is wines with tension instead of opulence, with acidity instead of jammy fruit.
Martin Gojer has deliberately opted for this outsider position. While other South Tyrolean winegrowers vie for points for concentrated growths, he favours drinkability and liveliness. The Laurenc from Lagrein shows this in exemplary fashion: no muscles, but silky tannins and the scent of violets and wet slate.
Sheep, cats and the K-question
The Ouessant sheep are Marion's territory. The smallest breed of sheep in the world fits perfectly into the narrow rows of pergolas, grazing the under-vine area and replacing chemical weedkillers. There are also chickens, bees and cats - one of which has made it onto the label of the MIAU! Petnat achieved.
The wine names tell stories: Caroline, the white cuvée, is named after Martin's daughter. The Campill bears a mutilated vineyard name - the historical designation may not be used if there are no Cabernet varieties in the wine. So Martin writes Ca___l on the label, an ironic commentary on the bureaucracy of wine law.
Rudolf Steiner on Kohlerer Berg
Since 2009, Pranzegg has been operating according to the Principles of biodynamics. Martin makes his own preparations and does not use any synthetic pesticides or fertilisers. The work on the steep slopes is physically demanding - much of the work can only be done by hand, there is no room for machines on the narrow terraces.
In the cellar, Martin follows the same philosophy of non-intervention: spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, matured in concrete tanks and used oak or chestnut barrels. No fining, no filtration, only a minimal addition of sulphur before bottling. The wines often mature for two to three years on the lees before being bottled.
Pergola and precision
The traditional pergola cultivation characterises the image of the Pranzegg vineyards. This old South Tyrolean method shades the soil, protects against dehydration and enables ripening without over-ripening. Martin has preserved many of the old vineyards, while others have long since switched to modern trellis training.
The product range reflects the diversity of the region: Vernatsch and Lagrein for the reds, plus white cuvées from Müller-Thurgau, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc and other local varieties. The Tonsur comes from the opposite side of the valley and shows mineral precision with bright fruit and herbal notes.
In a region that is increasingly focussing on international grape varieties and pleasing styles, Pranzegg remains a counter-design. Similar to Manincor, which also works biodynamically just a few kilometres away, Martin Gojer shows that South Tyrol can do more than just Pinot Grigio for the mass market.