Tasting note
A Gewürztraminer that takes its name seriously: the Hengst surges from the glass like a thoroughbred racehorse – powerful, precise and full of energy. Olivier Humbrecht, the first French Master of Wine and a pioneer of biodynamics in Alsace, demonstrates here what this steep Grand Cru vineyard site near Wintzenheim can draw from such a demanding grape variety. With 15 per cent alcohol and a fine, elegantly integrated sweetness, this is a wine of rare stature – fascinating today, and magnificent in a few years’ time.
- Colour & appearance
- Dense, radiant golden yellow – visually a promise in itself.
- Nose
- A firework display of aromas: rose oil, bergamot and orange zest meet cedarwood, light tobacco, cinnamon and a hint of wood smoke. Behind them wait fig, date and salty nougat – compact, intense and immensely expressive.
- Palate
- The attack is charged with energy: salty-mineral pressure, fine sweetness, accompanied by delicate tannins and a lively, invigorating acidity. Complex, dense, precise – sweet, yet never heavy.
- Terroir & origin
- Hengst was classified as a Grand Cru in November 1982 and lies on a majestic, steep slope facing south-east near Wintzenheim, close to Colmar. The red Oligocene limestone soil consists of calcareous sandstone with calcareous pebbles and is rich in iron; clay (marl) lends the thin layer of earth excellent drought resistance. An early-ripening climate, limestone and iron all favour the phenolic ripeness that is crucial for Gewürztraminer.
- Grape variety & vinification
- The Gewürztraminer comes from two very old vineyards in the heart of the Grand Cru. 2020 yielded very ripe, healthy grapes that revealed the rich potential of this sunny, warm vintage; fermentation proceeded swiftly and powerfully – like a stallion. The domaine has been Demeter-certified since 2002; no wine leaves the cellar there before one to two years of ageing.
- Food recommendations
- Surprisingly versatile at the table: aubergines and spinach with figs, walnuts and feta, leg of lamb marinated in pomegranate syrup with cauliflower and saffron-mint rice – or, as a sweet finale, a Tarte Tatin wreath with pears, caramel and Gewürztraminer ice cream.
- Special features
- The rare combination of sweet opulence and a salty, mineral presence, carried by the iron-rich limestone of Hengst. Be sure to decant it and drink it from large Burgundy glasses; a few days of air allow it to gain even more. Those who bring patience will be rewarded with a celebration in a few years’ time if they keep a few bottles in the cellar.
