Gewürztraminer Steingrubler Grand Cru 2020

There are Gewürztraminers that overwhelm you with perfume. And then there is this one. From the upper slope of the Steingrubler in Wettolsheim comes a wine that displays all the opulence of the variety – while simultaneously taming it. Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé have farmed their 25 hectares biodynamically since 1997; the fact that their vines are spread across nearly one hundred parcels pays dividends here: the Steingrubler, a stony south-east-facing vineyard site on marl-limestone-sandstone, is one of their six Grand Cru sites, and the roughly 30-year-old vines yield fruit of unusual density.

Colour & appearance

Golden yellow, bright and clear in the glass – already showing greater maturity than many of its vintage peers.

Nose

Varietally typical, yet remarkably precise: pear, mirabelle and peach compote, alongside mango and lychee. Overlying these are orange and lemon zest, quince and candied orange peel, followed by spice – nutmeg, light tobacco, turmeric, a hint of pepper. None of these elements pushes to the fore; everything feels composed, almost cool.

Palate

Creamy, juicy, ripe – and yet full of drive. A vibrant acidity and a cool, almost saline minerality make the luscious residual sweetness all but forgotten. Even the 13.5% alcohol, often a stumbling block for Alsatian Gewürztraminer, remains remarkably unobtrusive. Tobacco and peppery notes thread through the yellow fruit; the wine has power and body, yet moves with astonishing lightness.

Finish

Long, spicy and mineral-driven, with lingering citrus zest and peppery freshness – the stony character of the vineyard site lingers to the very end.

Terroir & origin

The Steingrubler is a stony, south-east-facing parcel at the top of the slope near Wettolsheim, with marl-limestone-sandstone soils. In Alsace, Gewürztraminer has traditionally been planted on calcareous soils – over decades, the Barthelmés have observed which variety belongs where, rather than following a rigid formula.

Grape variety & vinification

Pure Gewürztraminer from approximately 30-year-old vines, Grand Cru Steingrubler, 2022 vintage. The estate has been farmed biodynamically since 1997 and is Demeter-certified – horses rather than tractors are used in the steepest vineyard sites.

Food pairing suggestions

The combination of spice, residual sweetness and tension makes it an ideal candidate for Asian dishes with heat – such as Thai curry or spiced duck dishes. It also pairs beautifully with pungent Munster or mature blue cheese, as well as with duck liver terrine.

Special characteristics

The enigma of this wine: it unites the opulent aromatics for which Gewürztraminer is both feared and adored with an inner coolness one would more readily expect from a Riesling grown on the granite of the Schlossberg. A wine that can dance despite its weight.