The Barbaresco Roncagliette DOCG 2023 by Olek Bondonio hails from one of Piedmont’s most renowned vineyard sites and reveals Nebbiolo in its most multifaceted form: dark fruit, delicate herbal spice and a saline-mineral structure that make this wine a profoundly immersive experience.
63,03€84,04€ / l
Excl. VAT
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Bottler: Azienda Agricola Olek Bondonio I Via Riccardo Terzolo 14, 12050 Barbaresco / Italy
In the glass
Colour
Bright sour cherry red with a subtle rust-tinged rim.
Nose
A fascinating interplay of ripe tomato and beetroot with sour cherry, elderberry and mulberry; beneath, cold-smoke minerality, cocoa butter, lightly roasted coffee, liquorice, liquorice root, black and white pepper, as well as ethereal notes of sage and oregano.
Palate
Silky, almost weightless texture with finely polished tannins; the architecture is supported by a grippy acidity that lends the wine energy and direction. Saline, stony minerality dominates, while sour cherry gives way to juniper, pepper, liquorice and Mediterranean herbs; on the long finish, the tomato component returns with remarkable freshness.
Character
Less immediately charming than complex and intellectual – a wine of remarkable depth and individuality that only fully reveals itself upon closer inspection. Taut, with a tannic framework built to endure for decades.
Pairing
Truffle risotto, herb-crusted rack of lamb, mature Parmigiano Reggiano.
Notes
From the legendary Roncagliette cru, next door to Angelo Gaja’s Sorì Tildìn; biodynamic viticulture across seven hectares certified organic; vinified by a former professional snowboarder whose great-great-great-grandfather co-founded Produttori del Barbaresco in 1894 – a piece of living wine history from one of the world’s most privileged vineyard sites.
Tasting note
Colour & appearance
Bright sour cherry red with a hint of rust at the rim – even in the glass, a wine that makes no secret of its origins.
Nose
A bouquet that defies easy categorisation. At its core lies a dark, unusually vegetal fruit: ripe tomato and beetroot, not as mere vegetable notes, but as a fusion of fruit, earth and depth. Behind them, sour cherry, elderberry and mulberry. With air, cocoa butter, lightly roasted coffee, liquorice and sweet root emerge, alongside black and white pepper, juniper, sage and oregano. A cool-smoke minerality – wet stone, flint – runs through it all like a foundation.
Palate
Here lies the surprise: what the nose promises in power, the palate dissolves into a silky, almost weightless texture. The tannins remain fine and restrained; the structure is carried by a grippy, precise acidity that lends the wine energy and direction. Saline, stony, profound – yet bright and transparent. The fruit steps back behind the spice: sour cherry shares the stage with juniper, pepper, rosemary and oregano.
Finish
Long and evolving: the tomato component returns, merging with herbs and saline minerality into a finale that provokes contemplation rather than seeking to please.
Terroir & origin
Cascina La Berchialla sits atop the Roncagliette cru – the very vineyard site made famous by neighbour Angelo Gaja as “Sorì Tildìn”. Bondonio’s great-great-great-grandfather was among the co-founders of Produttori del Barbaresco in 1894. Here, Nebbiolo grows on historic ground.
Grape variety & vinification
Pure Nebbiolo from seven hectares, which Bondonio has farmed organically certified and according to biodynamic principles since 2018 – without making a spectacle of it. No tasting room, no website. The wines speak for themselves.
Food recommendations
The spicy depth calls for substance: braised leg of lamb with herbs, tagliatelle with porcini, game terrine or ripe Taleggio.
Special characteristics
A Barbaresco that is less immediately charming than some of its neighbours – yet more complex, intellectual and individual. The constant interplay of fruit, vegetal notes and saline minerality makes it a wine to which one can devote hours. A tannin framework built to carry decades.
