A profound, multi-layered Nebbiolo from the cool, north-facing Starderi vineyard site – a wine that unites power and floral elegance with vibrant acidity to create impressive inner tension.
Bottler: Azienda Agricola Olek Bondonio I Via Riccardo Terzolo 14, 12050 Barbaresco / Italy
In the glass
Colour
Luminous amarena red with fine rust-coloured hints and a transparently fading rim.
Nose
Amarena, rosehip, mulberry and ripe fig, accompanied by coffee, liquorice and dark chocolate; above these hover rose, hibiscus, violet and a subtle note of lavender honey.
Palate
Linear and profound with melted, slowly building tannins; dark fruit, black pepper, juniper and roasted aromas, with fresh herbs of rosemary and thyme in the long finish.
Character
A Barbaresco of great finesse – concentrated yet always agile and fresh, with ageing potential for many years.
Pairing
Braised beef cheeks in red wine, truffle risotto or mature hard cheese such as Parmigiano Reggiano.
Notes
Sourced from one of Barbaresco’s most renowned crus, vinified by a winemaker practising organic-certified, biodynamically inspired viticulture; the almost enigmatic lavender honey aroma runs like a common thread through both nose and palate.
Tasting note
Colour & appearance
Luminous sour cherry red with delicate rust-coloured hints; the transparent, elegantly fading rim reveals the nobility of Nebbiolo right in the glass.
Nose
An interplay between power and fragrance: rosehip, elderberry, mulberry and juicy sour cherry, accompanied by a ripe fig note. Above this lies a multi-layered spiciness of freshly ground coffee beans, liquorice and bitter chocolate – more grated cocoa bean than opulence. Floral components of rose, hibiscus and violet blossoms lend a floating elegance, while chalky, earthy nuances speak of its origin. With air, a discreet hint of lavender and lavender honey joins in – mysterious, never intrusive.
Palate
Straightforward, profound, with impressive inner tension. The tannin initially appears astonishingly melted, yet slowly builds up to become the supporting backbone. Darker than on the nose: violet, ripe fig and sour cherry, framed by black pepper, juniper and fine roasted aromas. The fruit feels tightly focused, almost as if concentrated through a narrow beam of light – nothing broad, nothing excessive.
Finish
Opens up once again with surprisingly ethereal freshness: rosemary, thyme and fine herbal notes provide lightness and length. The trail of lavender honey runs like a common thread through the long aftertaste.
Terroir & origin
Starderi is one of the most sought-after vineyard sites in Barbaresco; its slightly cooler, north-facing exposure translates into vibrant acidity and floral elegance. Olek Bondonio’s Cascina La Berchialla sits not far away on the legendary Roncagliette cru – next door to Angelo Gaja. His seven hectares are spread across the crème de la crème of Barbaresco.
Grape variety & vinification
Pure Nebbiolo, vinified dry, at 13.5% vol. The estate has been organically certified since 2018, and everyday life in the vineyards follows biodynamic principles – practised quietly, without any marketing spectacle.
Food recommendations
A wine for braised veal shank, tagliatelle with truffle or mature Parmigiano Reggiano; also an exciting combination with wild mushroom risotto.
Special features
The former professional snowboarder Bondonio makes wine on a 200-year-old family farm – his great-great-great-grandfather was among the co-founders of Produttori del Barbaresco in 1894. No tasting room, no website: the wines speak for themselves. This Starderi impresses less through power than through finesse – a Barbaresco with decades of potential, from a generation that is currently redefining Piedmont.
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