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Olek Bondonio
Here speaks the essence of what Nebbiolo can be at the highest level: precise, profound, with an elegance that only fully reveals itself on closer inspection. Olek Bondonio tends the finest vineyard sites of Barbaresco with the intuition of an athlete and a deep respect for a family heritage spanning more than 200 years. His Cascina La Berchialla sits atop the legendary Roncagliette cru, side by side with Angelo Gaja. Biodynamic viticulture, zero marketing, no tasting room – instead, focused work in vineyard sites that have made history. The wines are rare, sought-after, and belong to the most exciting new generation of Barbaresco that Piedmont has to offer.
More about Olek Bondonio
From the snowboard to the Nebbiolo vines
The story sounds too good to be true: a professional snowboarder who conquered Italy in this sport returns to the 200-year-old family farm and begins to vinify some of the region's most remarkable Barbarescos. But this is exactly Olek Bondonio's reality. The Cascina La Berchialla is at the absolute top of the Roncagliette Cru – jener Lage, die Angelo Gaja als “Sorì Tildìn” weltberühmt gemacht hat. Der Nachbar ist nicht irgendwer, die Messlatte liegt stratosphärisch hoch.
In 1894, Bondonio's great-great-great-grandfather was one of the co-founders of the legendary Produttori del Barbaresco. The inheritance weighs heavily, but Olek carries it with the ease of a man who is used to spinning in the air. In his cellar, among the wine barrels, stands a real Skateboard halfpipe - a detail that reveals everything about his approach. This is someone who strives for perfection without taking himself too seriously.
Locations that speak for themselves
Bondonio's seven hectares are spread over Barbaresco's absolute crème de la crème: Roncagliette, Starderi, Altavilla, Neive and Catagnole delle Lanze. The winery has been certified organic since 2018, but the work goes far beyond that. Biodynamic principles characterise everyday life in the vineyards, without Bondonio turning it into a marketing spectacle. In fact, marketing is not his thing. No website, no tasting room, instead he mainly shares photos of newborn kittens online. The wines have to speak for themselves - and they do so impressively.
The Barbaresco Roncagliette DOCG 2023 shows all the finesse of this exceptional site: taut, precise, with a tannin structure that will last for decades. If you would like to experience the format in a magnum bottle, the Barbaresco Starderi DOCG 2021 Magnum a wine that translates the somewhat cooler, north-facing site with vibrant acidity and floral elegance.
More than just Barbaresco
But Bondonio would not be Bondonio if he concentrated exclusively on the major appellations. His Barbera d'Alba DOC 2022 is anything but a supporting role - it shows that great winemakers can also get something extraordinary out of supposedly simpler grape varieties. Fresh, juicy, with an energy that is addictive.
And then there is the Vino Rosso “The Drunk Fly” - A wine that already reveals by its name that someone is at work here who has not taken all the liberties. An uncomplicated red wine that nevertheless bears Bondonio's signature: honest, direct, with character.
The new Barbaresco generation
Olek Bondonio belongs to the generation of Piedmontese winemakers who do not see tradition and modernity as opposites. Alongside personalities such as Roagna or Giovanni Almondo, he defines what Contemporary viticulture in Piedmont can mean: respectful of the terroir, uncompromising in quality, freed from unnecessary ballast.
His wines are rare and sought-after - not because he makes them artificially scarce, but because seven hectares only yield limited quantities. Anyone who gets hold of one of the Barbarescos not only holds a great wine in their hands, but also a piece of living wine history from one of the most privileged locations in the world.