Three vintages of Rosso
Pian dell’Orino does not release its Rosso di Montalcino until three to three and a half years after the harvest.
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- Rosso di Montalcino DOC 201755,00 €
- Rosso di Montalcino DOC 201855,00 €
- Rosso di Montalcino DOC 201969,00 €
Our pick
There was a single 50-hectolitre cask of the 2019 Rosso, in which it spent 32 months. If you are buying only one of the three vintages, I would choose this one.
From the wine letter
Pian dell’Orino does not release its Rosso di Montalcino until three to three and a half years after the harvest. The grapes are sorted as strictly as those for the Brunello, and the wine then spends 28 to 33 months in large casks. It is made by Jan Hendrik Erbach, a German oenologist. His wife, Caroline Pobitzer, is from South Tyrol and looks after the administration and customers of the estate, which is right next door to Biondi-Santi in Montalcino. Only Sangiovese grows on its 5.8 hectares, which lie between 270 and 500 metres. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically.
Because the Rosso is released so late, this letter sets three vintages side by side. After 28 April 2017 not a drop of rain fell until 1 September. The harvest began on 28 August and was over by the evening of the 31st, a day before the rain. In 2018, 420 millimetres of rain fell between budburst and harvest, and the grapes did not ripen until the tramontana blew in from the north in the third week of September. In 2019 the spring was wet, and in June and July the thermometer climbed as high as 37 degrees. Below you will find the three Rossos individually and as a set, together with the Brunello from the rainy 2018 vintage.
P.S. The Piandorino 2020 comes mostly from the vineyard around the house, and also from Moro, where Pian dell’Orino experiments with many clones. It spent 17 months in a 12.5-hectolitre cask and smells of pine and cypress. The estate likens it to stopping to listen to a class of young artists at the conservatoire. Approx. €37.
The wines in this letter
The grapes came from Scopeta, Pian Bassolino and the Pian dell’Orino vineyard by the house, and the yield was just twenty hectolitres per hectare. Blackberry, plum and elderberry define the wine, and on the palate it is cool and racy. Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate each gave it 93 points. With rack of lamb and green beans, or with caramelised parsley root and beetroot salad.
55,00 €incl. VAT
For the 2018 Rosso, grapes came not only from Pian dell’Orino and the middle of Pian Bassolino but also, in part, from vineyards normally reserved for the Brunello. It smells of black cherry, blackberry and a touch of cassis, and the finish is appetisingly austere. Vinous gave it 93 points. With hare ragù and pappardelle, or with pasta alla Norma.
55,00 €incl. VAT
Picking took place on 27 September in Pian dell’Orino, but not until 4 October on the conglomerate soils in the middle of Pian Bassolino. The wine starts out spicy and wintry, and with the first sip it becomes fine and elegant. It received 93 points in the Wine Advocate. With braised rabbit leg, tomato and fennel, or with pumpkin and ricotta fettuccine.
69,00 €incl. VAT
The Vigneti del Versante 2018 comes from the steep Scopeta vineyard, from Pian Bassolino and from Cancello Rosso, where the soil beside an old travertine quarry is half terra rossa. The wine stayed on its skins for just under seven weeks. The Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck gave it 96 points, Vinous 95+. With braised beef, or with aged pecorino.
119,00 €incl. VAT