The Lemberger Herzstück 2022 from the Demeter-certified Roterfaden estate reveals Blaufränkisch from its light-footed, cool side – grown biodynamically on blue Muschelkalk in Roßwag near Vaihingen an der Enz and, at just 11% vol., a surprisingly elegant red wine from Württemberg.
Bottler: Winery Roterfaden, Hagenrainstraße 37, 71665 Vaihingen an der Enz / Germany
In the glass
Colour
Slightly transparent ruby red.
Nose
Redcurrants, crisp sour cherries and pomegranate, accompanied by bay leaf, a hint of juniper and fine yeast notes.
Palate
Fresh, juicy and dancing with earthy tones, meatiness, delicate spice and a pronounced yet very fine tannin.
Character
Rather than dark power, this is a robust, mineral Lemberger full of transparency – the balance of lightness, freshness and earthiness makes it assured and unmistakable.
Pairing
Roe deer fillet with a plum and red wine reduction, venison roulades with grapes and walnuts, or salt-crust beetroot with caraway and lentils.
Notes
Spontaneously fermented with wild yeasts, unfiltered and only minimally sulphured; the early harvest on rare blue Muschelkalk – a terroir reminiscent of the French Jura – lends cool nights, racy acidity and unusual tension. Demeter-certified since 2018.
Tasting note
Colour & appearance
A slightly transparent ruby red that reveals in the glass: this wine does not rely on density and weight, but on coolness and translucency.
Nose
Cool and elegant on the nose: redcurrants, crisp morello cherries, a hint of pomegranate. Behind them, herbal tones of bay leaf, a trace of juniper and a fine yeasty note that lends the wine depth.
Palate
Where one often expects Lemberger to be dark, firm and tannic, this wine dances across the tongue. Fresh, transparent, juicy – yet with everything that defines the grape variety: earthy notes, meatiness, delicate spice and a distinct yet fine tannin. The ethereal bay-leaf spice returns on the palate; the balance between lightness and substance is precise down to the last detail.
Finish
Cool, spicy and carried by invigorating acidity – the finish remains herbal and earthy without ever becoming heavy.
Terroir & origin
The vines are rooted in blue Muschelkalk near Vaihingen an der Enz, north-west of Stuttgart – a soil otherwise more commonly found in the French Jura. In the steep slopes of Roßwag with their old dry-stone walls, cool nights at altitude provide tension and lively acidity. Olympia Samara and Hannes Hoffmann, who met at Geisenheim University, have farmed their good three hectares biodynamically since 2014 – Demeter-certified since 2018, using wild herbs instead of tillage.
Grape variety & vinification
Lemberger – known elsewhere as Blaufränkisch – is harvested early here, which is why the wine remains at 11% vol. Two thirds of the grapes are destemmed and ferment on the skins for four to five weeks with natural yeasts in open wooden casks, without much movement. The wine remains on its gross lees in multi-year-old casks until bottling, is not filtered and receives only minimal sulphur.
Food recommendations
Its earthy spice and fine juiciness make it ideal at the table: venison fillet with plum and red wine reduction and Jerusalem artichoke purée, venison roulades with grapes, beetroot and walnuts or, for a vegetarian option, salt-baked beetroot with caraway, lentils and apple.
Special features
A Lemberger that defies expectations: no heavy, dark muscleman, but a wine of assured clarity and Mediterranean lightness – slightly chilled, it shows how modern Württemberg can taste.
