Red thread

Anyone wandering through the winding alleyways of Rosswag has no idea that one of the most exciting new beginnings in the German wine scene is taking place here. Between the village's historic half-timbered houses, Olympia Samara and Hannes Hoffmann have created a microcosm that reinterprets the Württemberg winegrowing tradition - with a clarity of vision that is unrivalled.

Terroir as a destiny

The story begins with a geological peculiarity: the vineyards of the winery rise on pure shell limestone, which is usually found in this form in the French Jura. This limestone-dominated soil structure, combined with the special microclimate at an altitude of 300 metres, creates ideal conditions for deep, mineral-rich wines. The terraced steep slopes, some with inclines of up to 60 degrees, require uncompromising manual labour - a challenge that the winegrowing couple see as a gift.

The path to biodynamic excellence

Since the company was founded in 2014, Samara and Hoffmann have focussed on biodynamic farming. However, their approach goes far beyond the usual practices. They see themselves as "advocates of the vines", a role that combines minimal intervention with maximum attention. Home-made preparations made from nettle, valerian and yarrow strengthen the plants' resistance. Biodiversity is promoted through diverse planting, while the absence of tillage protects microbiological life.

Their handling of the old vines is particularly remarkable. The Lemberger vines, planted between the 1960s and 1980s, are carefully pruned and carefully foliaged to achieve the highest quality. The naturally low yields of 25-30 hectolitres per hectare - around half the regional average - speak for themselves.

Cellar philosophy of the gentle hand

In their vaulted barn converted into a wine cellar, Samara and Hoffmann practise a vinification process that is characterised by clarity and consistency. Whole-cluster fermentation for Pinot Noir, gentle destemming for Lemberger and vertical basket pressing for crystal-clear must are just the beginning. Fermentation takes place exclusively with natural yeasts in open vats, without temperature control, controlled only by the natural cellar atmosphere.

Ageing in neutral wooden barrels of various sizes (228 to 1,200 litres) gives the wines time to develop. A single racking before bottling, the absence of fining and filtration as well as minimal additions of sulphur complete the picture of a winemaking process that aims for absolute authenticity.

The wines: Expression of the place

The winery's portfolio reflects its focus on the essentials. The Lemberger "Endschleife" from 55-year-old vines epitomises the new definition of this traditional Württemberger variety: Wildly spicy, with a fascinating balance of red fruit and chalky minerality, it continues to develop dramatically in the glass for hours.

This Riesling from south-west-facing vines over 50 years old displays a precision that is unusual for Württemberg. Green apple, quinine and a pronounced stoniness combine to create a wine experience that makes its origins immediately tangible.

The Pinot Noir from the steepest limestone terraces completes the range with an unconventional interpretation of the variety. Cranberry, summery forest soil and white pepper, supported by the grippy structure of the whole-grape fermentation, paint the picture of a wine that combines finesse with character.

With an annual production of just 15,000 bottles, the winery has developed into a beacon of the German natural wine movement. Its success in demanding markets such as Berlin, Copenhagen and New York confirms that it is on the right track. Even more important, however, is its appeal in the region: more and more neighbouring winegrowers are being inspired by the uncompromising focus on quality.

The couple's next project, the replanting of abandoned terraces with mass selections of their oldest Lemberger vines, looks to the future. In times of climate change, the high, cool locations are proving to be a strategic advantage. This is how viticultural history is being rewritten in Rosswag - with a common thread linking the past and the future.