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Three without, three with sulphur: six wines · Domaine Rougeot
Domaine Rougeot · Meursault, Côte de Beaune

One vineyard, twice

For two decades Domaine Rougeot in Meursault supplied French supermarkets.

365,48 €incl. VAT, plus shipping

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Our pick

The two Grandes Gouttes 2022 lay in the same cellar until bottling. I would take both and open them side by side.

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From the wine letter


For two decades Domaine Rougeot in Meursault supplied French supermarkets. After the frost of 2016 it stopped and lost 85 per cent of its sales. The prices in that part of the market, says Pierre-Henri Rougeot, did not allow them to make wine of the quality they wanted. His father Marc still runs the domaine and works in the vineyards. The son has made the wine since 2010.

Today almost every white from the Rougeots comes in two versions. Pierre-Henri is allergic to liquid sulphur, which is rather inconvenient for a winemaker. During pressing he lets the must oxidise deliberately, because he sees this as the basis for doing without sulphur. Whatever then stabilises on its own in barrel, the family bottles with no added sulphur, under a diagonal label. The rest is given a little sulphur at bottling and the classic label with its drawing of the house. We have both versions of the Grandes Gouttes 2022, plus the Combe Bazin from Saint-Romain and the premier cru from Charmes. The larger set adds the Grandes Gouttes 2023 with no added sulphur and the Bourgogne “La Monatine” 2023 in the classic bottling, making three wines without sulphur and three with.

P.S. The Meursault “Sous la Velle” 2023 with no added sulphur comes from the domaine’s largest vineyard, which lies on flat ground below the village, opposite the Château de Meursault. The soil there has a lot of clay in places and more limestone in others. Approx. €98.

The wines in this letter

In the set · Three without, three with sulphur · One vineyard, twiceBourgogne Côte d’Or “Les Grandes Gouttes” 2022, no added sulphurChardonnay · southern edge of Meursault

The grapes grow on the southern edge of Meursault below Charmes, where the commune borders Puligny. Tasting from barrel, Jasper Morris found the first nose faintly oxidative, but not the wine underneath. On the palate he noted very fresh apples, though feeling ripe, good enough acidity and excellent body. With leek tart.

43,49 €incl. VAT

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In the set · Three without, three with sulphur · One vineyard, twiceBourgogne Côte d’Or “Les Grandes Gouttes” 2022, classicChardonnay · southern edge of Meursault

The wine comes from the same vineyard and the same cellar, but at bottling it was given a little sulphur and the classic label. The domaine describes a subtle nose of acacia flowers, fresh almonds and a hint of zest. It should spend at least a quarter of an hour in a decanter. With blanquette de veau.

39,00 €incl. VAT

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In the set · Three without, three with sulphur · One vineyard, twiceSaint-Romain “La Combe Bazin” 2022Chardonnay · steep slope on limestone

The Combe Bazin is a steep west-facing slope on limestone in Saint-Romain, and the Rougeots have leased it for some thirty years. They bottled the 2022 vintage the classic way, with a little sulphur. Bill Nanson found it very mineral, with an oak accent in the finish. With pan-fried scallops.

56,50 €incl. VAT

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In the set · Three without, three with sulphurMeursault-Charmes Premier Cru 2023, no added sulphurChardonnay · Meursault Premier Cru

The Rougeots farm two small parcels in the lower part of Charmes, 0.37 hectares in all, on limestone and marl. The wine ferments in barrel and stays there on its lees until it is bottled, unfined and unfiltered. Pierre-Henri Rougeot says that the higher an appellation ranks, the less work you have to do at the winery. With turbot and morels.

143,00 €incl. VAT

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