One slope, three appellations
On the En Barmont slope in Les Riceys, Pinot Noir grows on red clay over hard limestone.
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Our pick
For the Martinmas goose I would open the Sève 2019. After four years on the lees, this pure Pinot Noir from En Barmont has enough body for the goose, and with no dosage it stays dry enough for its fat.
From the wine letter
On the En Barmont slope in Les Riceys, Pinot Noir grows on red clay over hard limestone. From it Olivier Horiot makes three wines in three appellations: a Champagne, a still red and a Rosé des Riceys. Nowhere else in Champagne is this possible, because the Rosé des Riceys appellation covers only this village. On his website Horiot writes that his wines are tied to Les Riceys, which in centuries past was “tantôt bourguignon, tantôt champenois”.
When Olivier Horiot took over his father Serge’s estate in 1999, the family had been growing vines in the village since the 17th century. Serge was one of the founders of the co-operative in Riceys-Bas, of which the family is still a member. The first wines of his own appeared in 2000: a Rosé des Riceys and a Coteaux Champenois. The first Champagne followed only in 2004. Olivier’s wife Marie runs the cellar, and the vineyards are farmed biodynamically. By way of introduction we have put together the Métisse from eight of the village’s sites, the Sève from En Barmont and the Envol with no added sulphur.
P.S. Three quarters of Horiot’s vines are Pinot Noir, yet he grows all seven grape varieties permitted in Champagne. All seven come together in the Soléra, which we have in magnum. Approx. €165.
The wines in this letter
For the Métisse, Horiot blends around four fifths Pinot Noir with one fifth Pinot Blanc from eight sites in the village, all of them on Kimmeridgian marl and clay. The blend includes the best fruit from Escharère, where, in Horiot’s words, the marl gives the juice a roundness you do not get elsewhere. The Champagne matures in barrel, receives a portion of réserve perpétuelle from the foudre and is not dosed. With sole in lemon butter.
51,00 €incl. VAT
The Sève is pure Pinot Noir from En Barmont, where the red clay lies on hard Kimmeridgian limestone. After a slow fermentation in barrel it spent a good four years on its lees from July 2020 until it was disgorged without dosage in November 2024. On the back label the Horiots call it “l’expression simple et intime du Terroir des Riceys”. With roast quail.
67,00 €incl. VAT
The Envol is a Pinot Noir to which neither sulphur nor dosage was added. The grapes were picked on 10 September 2019, and the wine was disgorged at the end of November 2023. It is airy and silky, with white-fleshed fruit, citrus and a salty freshness. With oysters.
93,00 €incl. VAT
The 5 Sens combines five grape varieties from old vines in five of the village’s sites, each parcel vinified separately. Among them is Arbane, of which Horiot had just 303 vines in 2013, enough for about one barrel a year. After a good four years on the lees the wine was disgorged in October 2024 and left without dosage. With pan-fried Arctic char.
93,00 €incl. VAT
“Ailleurs” means “elsewhere”. The Chardonnay grows in Fontette, a neighbouring village in the Côte des Bar. It was fermented spontaneously in wood and disgorged in May 2025 after a good three and a half years on the lees. With lemon risotto.
90,00 €incl. VAT