Bottler: Winery Moric, Kirchengasse 3, A-7051 Großhöflein / Austria
In the glass
Colour
Dark cherry red with slight haze and subtle rust-coloured hints.
Nose
Morello cherry, plum and cassis behind ripe, spicy notes of oregano, marjoram, white pepper, green olive, undergrowth and pine needles, along with chocolate, cocoa butter and lightly roasted coffee.
Palate
Juicy, grippy and elegant with prominent sour cherry, beetroot, lively acidity and fine astringency that draws the wine out to great length.
Character
Mature, profound and multi-layered — power meets almost weightless finesse, ripeness meets astonishing freshness; a wine at its peak drinking window with great composure.
Pairing
Braised leg of lamb with herb jus, wild mushroom risotto or boldly spiced grilled entrecôte.
Notes
From 50- to 110-year-old Blaufränkisch vines on iron-rich volcanic and calcareous soils in Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt; spontaneously fermented and aged for around 20 months on the fine lees in used wooden casks — Burgundian style rather than Burgenland opulence, from Falstaff's Winemaker of the Year 2023.
Tasting note
Colour & appearance
Dark cherry red with a slight haze and subtle rust-coloured hints – a wine that visibly wears its more than ten years in the glass.
Nose
Ripe, calm, profound aromatics well beyond primary fruit. Morello cherry, plum and a touch of cassis form the foundation, overlaid by a dense layer of oregano, marjoram and a fine umami note leaning towards lovage. White pepper, grated chocolate, cocoa butter and lightly roasted coffee join in, along with green olive, undergrowth and the ethereal spice of pine needles – an aromatic profile of mature complexity.
Palate
Enormously juicy, with grip and impressive elegance. Herbal, green components initially take centre stage, before the sour cherry pushes through – more present than on the nose – complemented by fresh, crisp beetroot. The cool style of the vintage reveals itself in a remarkably lively acidity that still lends the wine tension today. Meaty hints provide substance without ever adding weight: here, power meets almost weightless finesse.
Finish
The fine astringency persists deep into the aftertaste, drawing out the wine and creating exceptional drinkability – a finale of herbal spice, minerality and gripping structure.
Terroir & origin
In Burgenland, Roland Velich cultivates 22.5 hectares of extraordinary vineyards around Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt. In Lutzmannsburg, the vines are rooted on a prehistoric volcano, whose iron-rich soils lend the Blaufränkisch an unmistakable minerality. Many vines are 50 to 110 years old – genetic treasures yielding tiny harvests and concentrated, complex wines.
Grape variety & vinification
Pure Blaufränkisch, vinified with a Burgundian approach: spontaneous fermentation in open wooden vats, 22 days of maceration, followed by 20 months of ageing on the fine lees in large, used wooden casks. Neither fining nor filtration – Velich’s radical restraint in the cellar is intended to let the terroir speak unfiltered.
Food recommendations
The spicy ripeness and juicy structure call for equally earthy, robust dishes: saddle of venison with lingonberries, rack of lamb with Provençal herbs, wild mushroom ragout on polenta or aged hard cheese. Duck breast with sour cherry jus also elegantly mirrors the wine’s fruit.
Special features
A wine with history: in 2009, Moric’s Neckenmarkt Alte Reben was the first Austrian red wine to receive 95 Parker points; James Suckling ranks the estate among the nine best wineries in the world, and Falstaff named Velich Winemaker of the Year in 2023. After more than a decade, the Reserve 2014 shows what Blaufränkisch is capable of: cool elegance rather than opulence, with great composure and enormous tension – currently at a wonderful drinking peak.
