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From California’s Napa Valley to a pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago, the oenologist eventually found his way to Burgundy’s first Demeter-certified estate. Domaine Boris Champy in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune has practised biodynamic viticulture since 1984, demonstrating that high-altitude vineyards have become a decisive advantage in the age of climate change. Here, the grapes ripen a week later than on the renowned Côte de Beaune, whilst rare sélections massales from pre-phylloxera vines lend exceptional complexity. The twelve hectares encompass not only vineyard sites in Nantoux but also prestigious parcels in Pommard and two Beaune Premier Crus.
More about Boris Champy
The Pilgrimage to Burgundy's Oldest Demeter Wine Estate
The path to the Domaine resembles a modern odyssey: After ten years at Dominus Estate in the Napa Valley under Christian Mouëix came positions as technical director at a Beaune négociant and as estate manager at Clos des Lambrays. A pilgrimage along the Way of St James to Santiago de Compostela led to personal reorientation – and in 2019 to the takeover of the venerable wine estate from Didier Montchovet. This estate had already been Demeter-certified in 1984 as the first in Burgundy and has since practised biodynamic viticulture uncompromisingly.
High-Altitude Vineyards as Climate Change Insurance
The vineyards extend across various altitudes, from 377 metres at Clou to 421 metres at Bignon. These high-altitude vineyard sites prove to be a decisive advantage in times of climate change: the grapes ripen here a week later than on the more prestigious Côte de Beaune and thereby preserve natural freshness and elegance. The grape varieties include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligoté and Gamay, with particularly rare massale selections from pre-phylloxera vines providing exceptional complexity.
Biodynamic Pioneering Work for Four Decades
As Burgundy's first Demeter-certified wine estate, biodynamic viticulture has been practised consistently here since 1984. A self-built tisanière (tea brewer) supplies the preparations, hedgerows, stone walls, orchards and sheep characterise the landscape around Nantoux. This holistic approach shows parallels to other biodynamic pioneers such as La Soufrandière in the Mâconnais. Minimalist intervention winemaking relies on spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts, gentle extraction and restrained use of oak.
From Crémant to Fine de Bourgogne "Ultreîa"
The portfolio extends far beyond classic Burgundy wines: the Crémant "Élévation 424" plays with the altitude of the vineyards, whilst the Fine de Bourgogne "Ultreîa" represents a direct homage to the Way of St James experience – "Ultreîa" was the traditional pilgrim greeting on the Camino. The second line "Petit Aigle" under Ecocert certification makes biodynamic Burgundy wines accessible to a wider audience.