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Normandy
Between Lisieux and Domfront, apple and pear trees stand as tall as oaks in meadows where cows graze, and from their fruit comes the drink that defines Normandy. Those seeking wine from Normandy will find only a few young vineyards; the region’s true tradition lies in cider from cider apples and perry from perry pears, spontaneously fermented and refermented in the bottle to create a gentle sparkle. Our selection comes entirely from Lesuffleur in the southern Pays d’Auge: ciders and sparkling perries with low alcohol, crisp acidity and such remarkable depth that they hold their own at the table alongside any wine.
More about Normandie
Is there wine from Normandy?
Normandy lies at the northern edge of what vines will tolerate in France and for centuries had hardly any winegrowing worth mentioning. Only recently have a few producers in Calvados started planting vines again, and their wines remain regional rarities. What Normandy brings to the glass grows on fruit trees: cidre, poiré, pommeau and Calvados are the drinks of the region. Anyone looking for a Norman sparkling wine ends up with poiré, the sparkling perry that is often nicknamed the Champagne of Normandy for its fine mousse.
Pays d'Auge and Domfrontais: apples on clay, pears on granite
The Pays d'Auge east of Caen is hilly country of clay with flints over chalk, criss-crossed by hedgerows and damp meadows. This is home to the AOP Cidre Pays d'Auge and to the cheeses Camembert, Pont-l'Évêque and Livarot. Further south-west, in the Domfrontais, the Armorican Massif begins with granite and schist, and here the pear dominates: the AOP Poiré Domfront requires a high proportion of the Plant de Blanc variety. In both landscapes the trees stand as standard trees in grazed orchards. They root deeply, bear fruit only after many years and, the pear trees in particular, live to a great age. Cider apples are divided into sweet, bittersweet, bitter and sharp varieties, and only their blend gives a cidre tannin, fruit and freshness all at once.
Bottle fermentation: how cidre and poiré begin to sparkle
The harvest takes place in autumn, often of fruit that has fallen ripe and is left to mature for a while longer before pressing. The juice ferments slowly and coolly over the winter, at traditional producers solely with the yeasts from the fruit and the cellar. It is bottled while there is still sugar in the juice; fermentation continues in the sealed bottle and creates the carbon dioxide itself. This natural bottle fermentation explains the low alcohol of usually four to six per cent by volume and the noticeable residual sweetness, which in good years is carried by vigorous acidity and a fine bitterness. A poiré comes across as brighter and more floral, a cidre as earthier and spicier.
Lesuffleur: cidre and poiré from the southern Pays d'Auge
The cuvées from Lesuffleur bear the names of the villages around the farm in La Folletière-Abenon: Friardel, Cerqueux, La Folletière. The Lesuffleur Missùs 2018 in magnum is made from nine high-acid apple varieties from these sites and shows how much structure a cidre can build. The Lesuffleur Cerqueux Poiré 2019 spent three years on its lees and has aromas of ripe pear and white blossom, while the Friardel Poiré 2018 is medium-sweet, amber-coloured and marked by iodine and perry pear. These wines go as well with duck, roast pork with apples or a ripe Pont-l'Évêque as they do as an aperitif. You will find more producers from the country under France; Normandy remains our address for fruit in a bottle made with the care of a great wine.