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IT A pharmacy student who throws it all away to become an oenologist – and then roams the Provence with the renowned geologist Claude Bourguignon in search of the perfect vineyard. This is how the story of Domaine Saint Jean du Barroux begins, Philippe Gimel's domain at the foot of Mont Ventoux.
What he found here in 2003: twelve hectares of old vines, no infrastructure, no cellar. What he made of it: one of the most exciting estates in the entire Rhône. His organically certified vineyards, situated between 300 and 500 metres in altitude, resemble gardens more than production sites – interwoven with hedgerows, surrounded by fruit trees and aromatic herbs.
More about Saint Jean Du Barroux
The Ventoux Extraterrestre
Philippe Gimel wird in der Region als „Außerirdischer” bezeichnet – und das ist durchaus als Kompliment gemeint. Bevor er sein eigenes Weingut gründete, lernte er bei den Besten: im Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, at Pierre-Bise on the Loire and at Domaine de la Janasse. What he internalised there is now part of his own philosophy: Uncompromising quality, even if the price is personal comfort.
For the first few years, Gimel literally lived in his small cellar. Every euro he saved went into the vines. Today, he cultivates a good 16 hectares - 12.5 of which are under vines, the rest is forest and orchard. His yields of around 20 hectolitres per hectare are extremely low, even by biodynamic standards.
Six geological layers
What Claude Bourguignon discovered here is like a geological textbook. Up to six different rock layers can be found on Gimel's plots - similar to Chavignol in the Sancerrois. Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault thrive on the lighter-coloured, sandy soils. The darker, stonier sites in higher zones are reserved for Syrah and Grenache.
The vines are on average over 40 years old. Wild herbs grow between the rows, bees buzz and birds nest. The cool nights at 400 metres - Adrien Roustan makes the most of them at d'Ouréa on the other side of the Dentelles - give the wines a freshness that is rare in the southern Rhône.
The art of grape size
Gimel's signature: he does not separate the grapes by parcel, but by berry size. The larger, juicier grapes are used to produce La Source - Matured for 18 months in concrete tanks. The smaller berries, partly fermented with stems, become L'Argile (24 months). And the very smallest, with a high proportion of stalks, yield La Pierre Noire - powerful, spicy, matured for 36 months.
You will look in vain for oak here. All wines mature in Concrete tanks, which emphasise the pure fruit expression. Its white La Montagne from Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Gimel is convinced that Clairette needs eight years of bottle ageing before it can be released.
Purity as a manifesto
„Der Winzer ist Hüter des Landes” – so formuliert Philippe Gimel seine Philosophie. Organic certification by Ecocert is not a marketing measure for him, but a guarantee for the purity of his wines. He is known for being a vocal advocate of strict organic standards - and for only releasing each wine when he deems it ready.
The result? Ventoux wines with a clarity and depth that are unrivalled in this sun-drenched region. Anyone who meets Philippe Gimel experiences a fast-talking, feisty character full of creative energy. This is exactly what you will find in his bottles: Uncompromising intensity, paired with a surprising freshness from the heights of the Ventoux.