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Saint Jean Du Barroux
A pharmacy student who drops everything to become an oenologist - and then wanders through Provence with the famous geologist Claude Bourguignon to find the perfect vineyard. So begins the story of Domaine Saint Jean du Barroux, Philippe Gimel's empire at the foot of Mont Ventoux.
What he found here in 2003: twelve hectares of old vines, no infrastructure, no cellar. What he turned it into: one of the most exciting vineyards in the entire Rhône. His certified organic vineyards between 300 and 500 metres above sea level are more like gardens than production areas - criss-crossed by hedges, surrounded by fruit trees and aromatic herbs.
More about Saint Jean Du Barroux
The Ventoux Extraterrestre
Philippe Gimel is known in the region as an „extraterrestrial“ - and that is definitely meant as a compliment. Before founding his own winery, he learnt from the best: at the Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, at Pierre-Bise on the Loire and at Domaine de la Janasse. What he internalised there is now part of his own philosophy: Uncompromising quality, even if the price is personal comfort.
For the first few years, Gimel literally lived in his small cellar. Every euro he saved went into the vines. Today, he cultivates a good 16 hectares - 12.5 of which are under vines, the rest is forest and orchard. His yields of around 20 hectolitres per hectare are extremely low, even by biodynamic standards.
Six geological layers
What Claude Bourguignon discovered here is like a geological textbook. Up to six different rock layers can be found on Gimel's plots - similar to Chavignol in the Sancerrois. Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault thrive on the lighter-coloured, sandy soils. The darker, stonier sites in higher zones are reserved for Syrah and Grenache.
The vines are on average over 40 years old. Wild herbs grow between the rows, bees buzz and birds nest. The cool nights at 400 metres - Adrien Roustan makes the most of them at d'Ouréa on the other side of the Dentelles - give the wines a freshness that is rare in the southern Rhône.
The art of grape size
Gimel's signature: he does not separate the grapes by parcel, but by berry size. The larger, juicier grapes are used to produce La Source - Matured for 18 months in concrete tanks. The smaller berries, partly fermented with stems, become L'Argile (24 months). And the very smallest, with a high proportion of stalks, yield La Pierre Noire - powerful, spicy, matured for 36 months.
You will look in vain for oak here. All wines mature in Concrete tanks, which emphasise the pure fruit expression. Its white La Montagne from Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Gimel is convinced that Clairette needs eight years of bottle ageing before it can be released.
Purity as a manifesto
„The winegrower is the guardian of the land“ - this is how Philippe Gimel formulates his philosophy. Organic certification by Ecocert is not a marketing measure for him, but a guarantee for the purity of his wines. He is known for being a vocal advocate of strict organic standards - and for only releasing each wine when he deems it ready.
The result? Ventoux wines with a clarity and depth that are unrivalled in this sun-drenched region. Anyone who meets Philippe Gimel experiences a fast-talking, feisty character full of creative energy. This is exactly what you will find in his bottles: Uncompromising intensity, paired with a surprising freshness from the heights of the Ventoux.