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Meinklang

1 with Game pairing · 6 more wines

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Angela and Werner Michlits of Weingut Meinklang

A cow adorns every label. At Meinklang it is the programme: more than 300 Angus cattle graze the Michlits family's pastures, and their manure feeds the soil. At Austria's lowest point, in Pamhagen in Burgenland, the extended family runs a Demeter farm that weaves together viticulture, livestock and grain growing.

Werner Michlits and his wife Angela make wines that taste the way farming ought to be: spontaneously fermented and full of life.

Pamhagen lies where Austria sinks geologically to its lowest point, and where the Michlits brothers have been proving since 2001 that viticulture can be more than monoculture. Werner looks after the 30 hectares of vineyards, Hannes the grain, and the youngest the cattle in Hungary. The parents? Tirelessly in the thick of it. The whole extended family lives under one roof with their children, in a renovated farmhouse.

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Where cattle graze between the vine rows

Pamhagen lies where Austria sinks geologically to its lowest point, and where the Michlits brothers have been proving since 2001 that viticulture can be more than monoculture. Werner looks after the 30 hectares of vineyards, Hannes the grain, and the youngest the cattle in Hungary. The parents? Tirelessly in the thick of it. The whole extended family lives under one roof with their children, in a renovated farmhouse.

Demeter certification here is not a badge but lived reality: cow horns filled with fermented manure rest in the earth over winter. Herbal preparations following Rudolf Steiner's teachings revive the soils. The cattle supply the fertiliser, the grain feeds the animals – a cycle that has sustained itself for generations.

Wildflowers and biodiversity between the vine rows at Meinklang

Concrete eggs and gravity

In the cellar, patience rules. Werner works exclusively with gravity – no pumps, no haste. The grapes go into egg-shaped concrete vessels, whose form allows natural circulation during fermentation. Spontaneously fermented, unsulphured, unfined, this is where wines such as the Graupert Grauburgunder are made – a Grauburgunder that was left to its own devices, and tastes so alive for exactly that reason.

Egg-shaped concrete vessels in the wine cellar at Meinklang

From Lake Neusiedl to the volcano

The flat steppe landscape around Lake Neusiedl shapes the classic varieties: Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and Sankt Laurent. But the Michlits family think further: on the Hungarian side, on the slopes of the extinct volcano Somló, they grow Hárslevelü and Juhfark – varieties long forgotten elsewhere.

The Burgenlandweiß and the Burgenlandrot embody this philosophy in everyday form: uncomplicated, easy-drinking wines that still have depth. Anyone who wants to dig deeper will find in the Graupert Zweigelt a red wine that shows what happens when wine is given time and calm.

A farm as an organism

The name says it all: “Mein” (my) stands for Werner's personal signature, “Klang” (sound) for harmony with nature. The cow motif on the labels, designed by the artist Nikolaus Eberstaller, symbolises this cycle – it is one of the most fitting images of biodynamics there is.

Angela and Werner have not only built up a farm but also founded a Waldorf school in the region. Anthroposophical philosophy runs through their lives, from the classroom to the vineyard. Weingut Heinrich, only a few kilometres away in Burgenland, also works to biodynamic principles – the region has become a hotspot for living wines.

From natural wine bars in Paris to top restaurants in Copenhagen: Meinklang wines are found on lists where authenticity counts. Here you can taste what a farm can be when it is conceived as a living organism.

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