Le Chemin des Épines Noires VdF 2023

Wine description for Le Chemin des Épines Noires VdF 2023 from Hunter McKirdy

In the gentle fold between the renowned Grand Crus Froehn and Schoenenbourg lies an inconspicuous vineyard whose modest appearance barely hints at its true significance. Here, where the Dornerweg - or as the locals call it, the Chemin des Épines Noires - is a narrow gravel road that connects the western part of Zellenberg with the legendary Route des Vins, Hunter McKirdy has created a wine that captures the essence of the Alsatian terroir in a remarkably unadulterated way.

Visual impression

In the glass, the wine presents itself in a restrained, pale straw yellow with silvery reflections - a visual announcement of its precise, focussed personality, which speaks more of mineral depth than of lush fruit.

Nose

The nose immediately reveals the duality of this wine: fresh, tart apples meet crunchy, ripe specimens, embedded in a fascinating composition of yeast notes and lanolin. Behind this, a subtle hint of salted lemon and a bouquet of herbs unfolds, reminiscent of the limestone-rich soil in which the vines, which are over 50 years old, are rooted. The equal combination of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois lends the bouquet a remarkable complexity that slowly unfolds in the glass without ever fully revealing itself.

Palate

The true character of this wine is revealed on the palate. It is not the fruit that dominates here, but an impressive texture and structure that defines the wine. The fruit - again that interplay between fresh, tart and crunchy pomaceous fruit - merely forms the canvas on which the mineral precision can unfold. A savoury, refreshing bitterness lends the wine tension, while it flows across the palate with remarkable straightforwardness. The wine appears transparent, bright and clear, as if the terroir from which it comes can be recognised through it. The long finish is characterised by a salty, mouthwatering quality combined with an elegant silkiness - a testament to the nine months of ageing on the lees in old Burgundian barrels.

General information

Die handwerkliche Herangehensweise des Winzerpaares Jolene Hunter und Paul McKirdy spiegelt sich in jedem Aspekt dieses Weins wider. Die Trauben werden von Hand gelesen und in kleinen 10kg-Kisten transportiert, um Beschädigungen zu vermeiden. Die anschließende “Champagne-Pressung” in einer traditionellen hydraulischen Holzkorbpresse über 8-10 Stunden extrahiert sanft die Essenz der ganzen Trauben. Der Saft fließt allein durch Schwerkraft in die über zehn Jahre alten burgundischen Fässer, wo er ohne Eingriff spontan vergären darf. Die neunmonatige Reifung auf der Vollhefe ohne Abstich und mit nur minimaler Schwefelzugabe vor der Abfüllung unterstreicht das kompromisslose Streben nach Authentizität.

The vineyard itself, situated at an altitude of 270 metres, benefits from the mineral-rich limestone marl soils from the early Jurassic period, which were carried here by erosion from the surrounding slopes. These heavy but calcareous soils give the wine its distinct mineral signature and contribute to the late ripening of the grapes. It is noteworthy that the time of harvest is not determined by potential alcohol content, but by pH value and acid maturity - an approach that emphasises the freshness and precision of the wine.

Food pairing suggestions

This wine calls for dishes that complement its mineral precision and texture. It harmonises excellently with Tarte flambée with goat's cheese, poached river fish with butter and herb sauce or Choucroute garnie in a lighter interpretation. Also to Comté medium maturity or Munster cheese it forms a remarkable counterpoint. The savoury component of the wine also makes it the ideal accompaniment for Oysters or Seafood terrines.

With its moderate alcohol content of 12.5% and restrained residual sweetness, this wine is a remarkable expression of the Alsatian terroir, interpreted by the careful hand of a winemaker who respects tradition without being constrained by it.