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Hunter McKirdy
An uncompromising approach is characteristic of Hunter|McKirdywhere a Scottish ex-cellar master from Zind-Humbrecht and a South African winemaking expert in Zellenberg completely reinterpret Alsace wines. On 3.5 hectares of Jurassic limestone, wines with an iridescent acidity structure and a floating character are produced through eight-hour pressing in a wooden press and long ageing on the lees in old Burgundy barrels.
More about Hunter McKirdy
In the tranquil Zellenberg, not far from Colmar, one of the most exciting wine projects in Alsace is currently underway. After an intensive search, Jolene Hunter and Paul McKirdy have found their oenological home here. The history of this extraordinary winery is characterised by profound knowledge, an uncompromising pursuit of quality and a deep connection to the terroir.
The power of place
The 3.5 hectares of vines, acquired by Marc Tempé, rest on a remarkable subsoil of limestone-marl soils from the Jurassic period. The area shares this geological peculiarity with the renowned Sud Revermont in the French Jura. The vines, which are on average 45 years old and have deep roots, find ideal conditions here. Particularly noteworthy is the new planting with a density of 14,000 vines per hectare - a decision that significantly influences the complexity of the wines.
Precision in detail
The vineyard work follows a strict rhythm that is orientated more towards the pH value of 3.2 and the acidity than the potential alcohol content. This philosophy is reflected in the finished wines, which are consistently 12.5% vol. Hand-picking into small 10kg crates and careful pre-sorting in the vineyard are the first steps in a well thought-out quality concept.
In the cellar, the couple rely on a fascinating synthesis of Champagne and Burgundy methods. The grapes are pressed extremely gently in a hydraulic wooden press for eight to ten hours. This slow extraction results in a must of exceptional purity. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in Burgundy barrels over ten years old, followed by complete malolactic fermentation on the lees - without racking and initially without the addition of SO₂.
The portfolio: A journey through Zellenberg
The wine line impressively reflects the different terroirs of Zellenberg. "Les Champs des Roches", a single-varietal Riesling from gravel soils, displays a fascinating mineral depth. "Sous les Coudriers" from Pinot Gris captivates with its floral intensity, while "Le Jardin de la Source" perfectly captures the cool elegance of the limestone marl soils.
Also noteworthy is "Les Forêts Oubliées", a single-varietal Auxerrois from 30-year-old vines, which tells the story of the formerly wooded hills around Zellenberg. The wines are deliberately labelled as Vin de France in order to break away from the conventions of the AOC and guarantee maximum authenticity.
Vision for the future and sustainability
The avoidance of heavy machinery and the focus on manual labour are part of a larger ecological concept. Deliberately limiting production to less than 25,000 bottles per year allows for uncompromising quality control. Experiments with longer barrel ageing for red wines and the exploration of lesser-known Alsatian grape varieties demonstrate the innovative spirit of the winery.
Hunter McKirdy's wines are living testimony to a new, exciting chapter in Alsatian wine history. They combine precision craftsmanship with a deep understanding of terroir to create wines of remarkable authenticity and finesse. These are thought-provoking wines that elegantly express the complexity of their origins.