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Huet
The vine of moonlight – that is what they call Chenin Blanc here. Domaine Huet in Vouvray has been the benchmark for this grape variety since 1928: as age-worthy as great Riesling, versatile from bone-dry Sec to the honey-like Cuvée Constance. Three vineyard sites on the Première Côte – Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont, Clos du Bourg – provide the foundation. Gaston Huet introduced biodynamics as early as the late 1980s, and the estate has been Demeter-certified since 1993. Cellar master Benjamin Joliveau, a child of Vouvray, has been responsible for the wines since 2020. What endures: acidity and fruit in perfect balance, minerality from limestone and clay, wines that last for decades.
More about Huet
From a Parisian Bistro to the Loire
Victor Huet, a bistro owner from Paris, returned from the First World War with destroyed lungs. In 1928 he settled in Vouvray and purchased the vineyard site Le Haut-Lieu – the foundation of a legend. His son Gaston took over in 1937, spent five years as a German prisoner of war and then built on this legacy for 55 years. He secured two further top vineyard sites: Le Mont (1957) and Clos du Bourg (1963). Gaston considered Clos du Bourg the greatest vineyard in all of Vouvray – its sparsest, stoniest soils unite the minerality of Le Mont with the texture of Le Haut-Lieu.
Pioneers of Biodynamics
Long before the great names of Burgundy, Gaston Huet introduced biodynamic viticulture in the late 1980s – the final piece of the puzzle to decipher the DNA of his vineyards. Since 1993 the entire estate has been Demeter-certified. Nature sets the pace: depending on the vintage, each vineyard site produces up to four different bottlings – Sec, Demi-Sec, Moelleux and in exceptional years the Moelleux 1ère Trie. Whether botrytis develops is decided by the weather, not the winemaker. Charles Joguet works with equal conviction in Chinon with Cabernet Franc – both estates stand for single-vineyard production on the Loire.
The Three Vineyard Sites
Le Haut-Lieu (9 ha) was the founding vineyard. Deep, chalky clay loam makes the wines accessible – the Le Haut-Lieu Sec exemplifies this. Le Mont sits preferentially on the Première Côte: less loam, more stones, intensely mineral wines like the Le Mont Sec, which develop length and finesse with age. Clos du Bourg combines both – intense minerality and generous texture, perfectly expressed in the Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec. There is also the Pétillant, a sparkling wine from all three vineyard sites, and since 1989 in special years the Cuvée Constance – regularly one of the world's greatest noble sweet wines.
Benjamin Joliveau Carries on the Legacy
In 2003 New Yorker Anthony Hwang acquired the Domaine; today his children Sarah and Hugo run the estate. Benjamin Joliveau, a native of Vouvray, began in 2003 as a seasonal worker, worked his way up and took full responsibility for the wines in 2020. He learned from Jean-Bernard Berthomé and still overlapped with Noël Pinguet, Gaston's legendary son-in-law. "Chenin Blanc stands for fruit expression paired with natural acidity," he says. The deep rock cellars serve as the winery – constant temperature, neutral vessels, time. The result: wines that are better in ten years than they are today and even better in thirty years.