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Bruno Clair
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is written on the barrel, Bruno Clair draws a sample – concentrated, without haste. The Domaine Bruno Clair in Marsannay-la-Côte manages 27 hectares across eight villages of the Côte d'Or and produces 32 appellations. Among the finest holdings are Chambertin Clos de Bèze with vines from 1912, Bonnes-Mares, Clos Saint-Jacques and Corton-Charlemagne. What distinguishes the wines: clear, juicy fruit, fine bitterness and always a taut, saline line. The reds appear elegantly built yet profound, with silky tannins and a long mineral finish. Little show, much terroir – wines that shine at table and gain in complexity with age.
More about Bruno Clair
The Legacy of Clair-Daü
In 1919, Joseph Clair married Marguerite Daü and united their vineyards in Marsannay – laying the foundation for one of the most significant estates in the Côte de Nuits. Clair-Daü produced legendary Burgundies from vineyard sites such as Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bonnes-Mares and Musigny for 76 years. Following family disputes, the domaine was dissolved in 1985. Bruno, the founder's grandson, initially received only 7 hectares – but they were the right ones. In 1986 he established his own winery and built it piece by piece: 1990 Chambolle-Musigny, 1993 Corton-Charlemagne, 2006 additional parcels in Bonnes-Mares.
Grand Crus Without Fanfare
The Chambertin Clos de Bèze comes partly from vines planted in 1912 – they yield tiny crops and wines of noble intensity. The 1.64 hectares in Bonnes-Mares display darker spice, graphite and a broader tannin structure. The Clos Saint-Jacques in Gevrey-Chambertin feels cooler, with tighter grip and precise length. Then there is Chambertin-Clos de Bèze as the crown jewel – a wine that demands patience and rewards it with decades.
The Cellar of Restraint
In the cellar, the rule is: as much as necessary, as little as possible. Spontaneous fermentation is standard, extraction remains measured. For the red wines, 20 to 50 per cent whole bunches go into the fermentation vessel – a technique also practised by Domaine Trapet in Gevrey. Ageing takes place for 18 to 20 months in barrels, with new oak ranging between 20 and 50 per cent. Time handles the clarification: the wines rest long enough to be bottled without embellishment – transparent, unadorned, age-worthy.
Sixth Generation at Work
In 2010, son Edouard joined, followed by Margaux and Arthur in 2018. Each has his or her role: Edouard oversees vineyard and vinification, Arthur manages cellar ageing, Margaux organises shipping and logistics. The next generation carefully introduces innovations: higher proportions of whole bunches, less sulphur. Green cover and the abandonment of herbicides are long established. The presence remains quiet – demand high, allocations tight. The Marsannay Les Longeroies shows that even the entry-level wines have substance. In the end, consistency in the glass is what counts – and therein lies the strength of this house.