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Domaine Albert Mann
The Domaine Albert Mann in Wettolsheim is among the wineries one doesn't forget. Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé – brothers-in-law who share the work – manage 25 hectares across six Grand Cru vineyard sites, biodynamically farmed and Demeter-certified since 1997. The Riesling from Schlossberg has that granitic quality that almost crackles on the palate. The Pinot Noir from Clos de la Faille could come from Burgundy. In 2012 they were named "Winemakers of the Year" – but you'll hear about that here rather incidentally.
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Pinot Gris Altenbourg, Le Tri, Sélection de Grains Nobles 2001 375ml
69,00 €Incl. VAT where applicable -
Pinot Gris Altenbourg, Le Tri, Sélection de Grains Nobles 2008 375ml
52,00 €Incl. VAT where applicable -
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More about Domaine Albert Mann
Two Brothers-in-Law and Nearly a Hundred Parcels
Maurice looks after the cellar, Jacky the vineyards – that's how they divided things when they switched to biodynamic farming in 1997. Many thought it was madness back then. Today, the two brothers-in-law and their 25 hectares stand shoulder to shoulder with Alsace's finest producers. They farm vines across six Grand Cru vineyard sites: Schlossberg, Hengst, Furstentum, Steingrubler, Pfersigberg and Wineck-Schlossberg. It sounds like a lot, but the land is scattered across nearly a hundred parcels – each with its own character.
In the steepest vineyard sites, they work with horses instead of tractors. The soil doesn't get compacted, and the root systems can reach deeper. They exchange ideas regularly with Olivier Humbrecht from the neighbouring Domaine – both are Demeter-certified, both convinced that living soils produce better wines.
Schlossberg and Its Granite Wines
Riesling is the flagship variety here. What comes from Schlossberg tastes of the granite on which the vines stand – that almost saline minerality, plus citrus and a tension that makes the wine vibrate on the palate. The Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru 2021 demonstrates this particularly well.
Gewürztraminer grows on chalk in Furstentum, Pinot Gris stands in Hengst. Over the years, the Barthelmés have learned which grape variety belongs where. Not a formula, but observation spanning decades. Antoine, their son, is now working alongside them – the next generation is here.
Red Wine in Alsace
Alsace and red wine – that sounds unusual at first. But the Pinot Noir Clos de la Faille dispels preconceptions. The monopoly vineyard site belongs to the Barthelmés alone. They treat it like a Burgundy vineyard: hand-harvested, open fermentation, ageing in small oak. The result has finesse, silky tannins, nothing heavy.
Alongside this, Maurice experiments with amphorae. The Outrevin, a Pinot Noir made with minimal sulphur, matures in clay vessels. A side project he has pursued for years.
Crémant and Sweet Wines
The Crémant d'Alsace Extra Brut 2022 ranks among the region's finest. Fine bubbles, bone dry, at a price that makes Champagne look expensive.
When the vintage allows, Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles also emerge – sweet wines that can age for decades. The Barthelmés don't make these every year. Only when the grapes warrant it. This philosophy runs through everything here: never force anything, observe, respond.