Riesling RSS “This is not a love song” Steingutamphore 2018

This is a Riesling from 80-year-old vines from parcels of the Steiner Schreck, which are farmed in a Demeter-certified manner. The Steiner Schreck lies around 320 metres above sea level and is one of the steepest sites in the Krems Valley. It is characterised by Gföller gneiss and granite. The Riesling was harvested at the equivalent of 11 vol.-% with 2.8 pH on 26. 8. as early as never before. It was pressed extremely slowly over two days on the 100-tonne tree press we designed ourselves. The pressing process itself is completely reductive, but afterwards the juice has time to brown, i.e. it is deliberately subjected to oxidation. The juice is fermented spontaneously and aged for more than two years on the full lees in a Bordelais 550-litre stoneware amphora, which allows for micro-oxidation similar to that of a large wooden barrel. During fermentation, Lang adds 3 to 5 % destemmed grapes, which ferment intercellularly to keep the fermentation process going despite the constant 9 °C in the cellar. Later, the wine is minimally sulphurised. It was bottled unfiltered and lightly sulphured in February 2021 at about 3.2 pH.

pale straw yellow

Very fine, bright, bell-clear nose that is floral and citrusy in the early stages, but becomes increasingly spicy with air. Besides lemons and grapefruits, there are hints of crisp peach and pear, plus a little verbena and aniseed as well as some yeast. It all seems very clear, harmonious and genuine, light and airy and floating despite the substance. There is a clear difference to the same wine from the wooden barrel, which seems a little more set, a little darker and also creamier.

The Riesling from the Steiner Schreck is unique. On the one hand, the wine here is also floating and ethereal and, with its 11 vol.-%, quite lean and slender, but on the other hand, the old vines give it an additional dimension of depth and minerality. The long lees ageing brings salt and a silky texture to the wine. The Riesling comes across as light and bright, fresh and punchy and yet so laid back like an experienced jazz musician. Actually, »This is not a Love Song« is a song by the former English post-punk band Public Image Ltd, but this wine is more reminiscent of Nouvelle Vague's interpretation of the same song. It has something French, playful and of course also something Burgundian - especially in contrast to the often heavy wines that at least used to be produced in the Kremstal and especially in the neighbouring Wachau. Nevertheless, this is a profoundly independent wine that has a palpable idea within it and a clear signature. The Riesling remains cool and bright at all times, is herbaceous, punchy and very salty, vibrant and full of energy.