Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2017

Vintage

The 2017 vintage will go down in the history of this wine estate. For Olivier Humbrecht, it is one of the three best vintages since the foundation of the wine estate in 1959. However, this time frost and hail limited the yield to less than 20 hl/ha on average. After an early budbreak, two cold spells with sub-zero temperatures on April 21 and 22 exposed even those areas that were more sheltered to frost. An unusually freezing easterly wind froze vines in vineyards like the Herrenweg de Turckheim, which never froze to death in the 60 years Olivier's father has been involved. A hailstorm in the Brand vineyard fortunately remained without major consequences. Midsummer was hot, August milder, and the harvest started on August 29 with Pinot Gris Roche Roulée, followed by terroirs like Rotenberg, Heimbourg, Goldert ... A little rain on September 2 accelerated the ripening. The Rieslings were harvested from 11 September and the harvest finished with Rangen, Hengst and Clos Jebsal on 26 September. Only in Clos Jebsal were there minor signs of botrytis.

Vineyard

The Pinot gris developed exceptionally well in 2017, although it had flowered late. The special characteristics of the hot and early harvest in summer were used, and the volcanic soil of Rangen gives the Pinor gris a special personality anyway. Rangen is a complicated terroir, but one that particularly benefits from biodynamics. The steep slope and the soil littered with volcanic chunks and angular stones make manual work difficult, especially ploughing with a winch, but the effort involved benefits the wines; because over the years, the 54-year-old roots have given the grapes an individual character.

Fermentation

The last vintages of this grape variety have produced very dry wines. This was not only a stylistic choice, but also the result of the behaviour of the terroir in a changing climate. The grapes remain healthy longer, physiological ripeness is advanced, and therefore it is necessary to harvest the grapes before they are overripe. The energy is found again in the fermentation vigorous, fast and until the end of the sugar. Like many other wines of the same grape variety, Rangen was aged in barrel on full lees for over 18 months. The wine has 1.6 g/l residual sugar with 3 g acidity and a pH of 3.6. The yield was 26 hl/ha.

intense straw yellow

This Pinot gris from the Rangen suggests greatness from the first moment. The wine smells intensely of gunpowder shortly after opening. After the smoke has dissipated somewhat, flowers, bright citrus notes and the spiciness of curry reveal themselves. Then the Pinot gris stonier, earthier, and you get the feeling that the wine is also getting more powerful and deeper by the minute.

On the palate then really shows the greatness of this Rangen Pinot gris from 2017. What is this power, what is this cool, austere power, and yet why is this wine so seductive from the first moment of tasting? The Pinot gris is mouth-filling, lining juicy with bright and citrus clear fruit. In addition, there are again smoky, flinty notes that underline the austerity of the wine. At the same time, however, the wine is blessed with fine creaminess and a silky tannin. The fruit is accompanied by stony spice, by salt, by iodine, by wax and resin. The length is outstanding, the tension comparable to the Riesling from the same vineyard and the substance as well. Pinot gris can also be great - even if it is admittedly all too rare.