Brunello di Montalcino: Sangiovese Sacred Soils

The winding roads to Montalcino lead into one of Italy’s most fascinating wine regions. What was still an insider tip among wine lovers in the early 1980s has developed into one of Italy’s most sought-after wines. Yet the magical allure of this Tuscan hill landscape, where Sangiovese arguably finds its greatest expression, has remained timeless.

The quiet stars of Tuscany

The current generation of winemakers is raising the already high level of quality through remarkable further developments. What is impressive here is that this transformation is not taking place through revolutionary upheavals, but through careful evolution. Today, the best producers understand better than ever that the key to quality lies in the precise interpretation of their respective terroirs. They work in the vineyard with an obsession for detail reminiscent of the great domaines of Burgundy – a comparison that underlines the region’s exceptional development.

Among the characteristic cypress trees and olive groves, wines are created that combine the classic power and longevity of Brunello with unprecedented precision and finesse. The growing shift towards organic and biodynamic farming is more than just a trend – it is the expression of a profound understanding of the relationship between healthy soils and authentic wines.

Three estates stand out in particular, exemplifying the qualitative development of the region. These are…

…our Brunello di Montalcino winemakers

Salicutti: The Renaissance of a Classic

The story of Salicutti is closely intertwined with Francesco Leandra, who guided the fortunes of this estate for over thirty years. What is taken for granted today – organic farming and minimal intervention in the cellar – was revolutionary at the time he began. The 4.5 hectares of vines, all classified for Brunello, are among the most meticulously tended vineyards in the region.

What makes Salicutti so special is the combination of three distinctive vineyard sites:

• Piaggione: The historic plot, whose wines are distinguished by a remarkable combination of power and finesse
• Teatro: A new single vineyard that expresses the mineral component of the limestone soil with particular clarity
• Sorgente: Completes the terroir trio with its own interpretation of Sangiovese

The takeover by German owners and the close collaboration with Jan Erbach of Pian dell’Orino mark an exciting turning point. The focus on biodynamic farming and the further refinement of the single-vineyard philosophy promise great things for the future.

Tasting notes:

• Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Piaggione 2017: Displays the classic elegance of the vintage with fine spice and precise fruit
• Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Teatro 2017: Brilliant proof of the potential of the new vineyard sites
• Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023: Comes from the same vineyards as the Brunello, matures for only about a year in large wooden casks and shows the Sangiovese young and juicy, with red cherry, wild strawberry, a hint of violet and crisp acidity

Pian dell’Orino: Precision as a Philosophy

What Jan Erbach and Carolin Pobitzer have built over the past few years deserves the highest praise. Their meticulous approach to viticulture reminds me of the finest producers in Burgundy – a comparison I rarely draw.

The mere 5 hectares of vines at Pian dell’Orino are cultivated with an intensity that is second to none. Particularly impressive is Erbach’s understanding of the microclimates across his various parcels. His ability to “read” the subtle differences in the terroir and express them in the wine is exceptional.

The two single-vineyard Brunelli – Bassolino di Sopra and Vigneti del Versante – exemplify how precise vineyard work can lead to entirely different yet equally compelling interpretations of Sangiovese.

Tasting notes:

• Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante DOCG 2018: A wine of striking precision and depth
• Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2017: Reveals the enormous potential of the “little brother”
• Piandorino Toskana IGT 2021: An outstanding introduction to the world of Pian dell’Orino

Podere Brizio: Organic pioneer across 16 ha

The Bartolommei family impressively proves that larger estates – here 16 hectares – can also produce top quality. Their organic certification is far more than mere lip service; it forms part of a holistic philosophy.

What particularly impresses us about Brizio is the combination of traditional winemaking and modern technology. Hand harvesting and gentle handling of the grapes are just as much a matter of course as the use of state-of-the-art cellar equipment wherever it serves quality.

Tasting notes:

Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2020: Exceptional value for money

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 2016: A classically structured Brunello from a great vintage

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2017: Remarkably successful in a challenging year

A glimpse into the future

What we are currently witnessing in Montalcino is more than just a qualitative evolution. It is a fundamental realignment towards greater precision and terroir expression. The three estates presented here represent different facets of this development:

• Salicutti as a pioneer of organic farming and a champion of the single-vineyard philosophy
• Pian dell’Orino as a beacon of precision winemaking
• Podere Brizio as proof that tradition and modernity are not mutually exclusive

The growing importance of single-vineyard selections and organic farming is by no means a passing trend, but rather a logical step in the pursuit of quality. The coming years will show how this development continues. One thing, however, is already clear: Brunello di Montalcino is well on its way to further consolidating its position among the world’s great wine regions.

The DOCG Brunello dell Montalcino at Living Wines is represented by the following estates:

Photos of the Salicutti, Pian dell’Orino and Podere Brizio estates.