Granato Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 2016 1500ml Magnum

In dark ruby red with purple rim and opaque core, the wine appears clear and shiny in the glass.

In all clarity, the 2016 Granato from the crown prince of Teroldego inevitably makes it clear that if you really think you have to enjoy it so youthfully, you should open and decant it in good time before enjoying it.

A few hours later, one is granted entry.

Heart cherry, blackberry and blueberry have made a black-fruity pact, but are always accompanied by grapefruit and calamansi, which ensure that they do not pull each other down. The nose is simply delighted by the sheer floating straightness of the fragrance, for all its intensity and density. Brazil nut is coated wafer-thin with dark chocolate coating and spiced with ground cardamom seeds and the caramelly tang of a thick soy sauce.

All that; however, in quiet.

On the palate, too, the 2016 Granato from Emilio Foradori masters the difficult balancing act of density and intensity on the one hand, and refinement and subtle elegance on the other. Its dark fruit flashes and lines the mouth. At the same time, however, the wine refreshes itself with fine acidity and never drifts into jamminess or broad-shoulderedness. Undeterred, it is about length instead of width and about sound quality instead of volume.

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