Marsala Superiore Oro Riserva 2009 2009 500ml

Wine description for Marsala Superiore Oro Riserva 2009 2009 500ml by Marco de Bartoli

A Marsala that demonstrates why Marco de Bartoli rescued this misunderstood category from the depths of obscurity: the former racing driver from Samperi eschewed industrial sweet wine assembly lines in favour of genuine Grillo grapes, craftsmanship and patience. His Oro Riserva strikes a semi-dry middle ground – as powerful as a classic Marsala, yet remarkably slender and fresh in profile. Ten years of cask ageing, with no sign of fatigue whatsoever. One genuinely wonders why wines of this calibre ever disappeared from our tables.

Colour & appearance

Amber with pronounced orange reflections – luminous and inviting in the glass.

Nose

Opulent and multi-layered: dried figs, dates, candied orange peel and dried orange slices, alongside gingerbread, salted roasted almonds, cashews, raisins and a hint of cigar box. A nose that whets the appetite for the first sip.

Palate

Slender and linear despite its luscious residual sweetness – a vibrant acidity carries the whole and ensures a remarkable drinkability. Dried fruit, gentle spices, candied orange peel and roasted nuts continue on the palate. The power and personality of a classic Marsala, yet with a finely boned structure and subtle freshness.

Finish

Long and lingering, sustained by its acid structure – the nutty, spicy aromatic profile remains present almost endlessly.

Terroir & origin

Contrada Samperi near Marsala, western Sicily: limestone-rich, sandy-clay soils on predominantly flat terrain. The Grillo grape has thrived here since Phoenician times. The approximately 3,500 vines per hectare were planted between 1970 and 1996; the vineyards are farmed organically and harvested by hand.

Grape variety & vinification

100% Grillo, trained in both Alberello and Guyot systems, fermented with wild yeasts in oak casks. As a semi-dry style, it is traditionally fortified with a Mistella made from fresh grape must and spirit – unlike the unfortified Vecchio Samperi. Maturation takes place over ten years in French oak, kept topped up throughout, avoiding any contact with oxygen.

Food pairing

Surprisingly versatile at the table: mashed swede with sage butter and gingerbread crumble, peach and mozzarella with pan-fried spiny lobster in garam masala, or a succulent pulled pork sandwich. Equally rewarding as a standalone aperitif.

Special notes

A wine steeped in history: when the authorities claimed in the 1990s that a wine with 18 per cent alcohol could not legally be called wine, the winery was forced to close – until the bureaucracy finally capitulated. On the palate, this rare combination of baroque dried-fruit aromatics with a sleek, acid-driven freshness is truly captivating – a style pioneered by de Bartoli in 1985 through reduced sweetness.