Marco de Bartoli

Marco de Bartoli, originally a man of speed on the racetrack, discovered his true calling in the 1970s when he returned to the family estate in Samperi, a region near Marsala known for its calcareous soils. What he found there, however, was not what he had hoped for: a Marsala industry increasingly focused on mass production and standardised processes, to the detriment of the quality and unique character of this traditional wine.

The rebirth of Marsala began in Samperi, a region with ideal calcareous soils for the Grillo grape. The De Bartoli family can look back on over two hundred years of winemaking tradition, but it was not until Marco's return in the 1970s that the winery took on its current form. As a former racing driver, he brought the same passion and precision to winegrowing
that had previously characterised him on the race track.

The winery can be divided into two distinct areas: Samperi in the Marsala region in western Sicily and Bukkuram on the offshore island of Pantelleria. This geographical diversity allows the winery to utilise the full potential of Sicily's indigenous grape varieties.

In Samperi, the Grillo vines find ideal conditions in the calcareous soils. The maritime climate with its constant breezes from the nearby Mediterranean ensures healthy grapes and slow, balanced ripening. The vineyards are cultivated according to organic principles, which further enhances the expressiveness of the terroir.

On Pantelleria, a volcanic island between Sicily and Tunisia, the De Bartoli family cultivates the Zibibbo grape (also known as Muscat of Alexandria). Extreme conditions prevail here: strong winds, low rainfall and volcanic soil. The vines are traditionally kept low to the ground in the form of bushes to protect them from the winds. This special cultivation method, known locally as "alberello pantesco", has even been recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. The combination of volcanic soil, sea breeze and intense Mediterranean sunshine gives the Zibibbo grapes an extraordinary aromatic complexity, which is particularly evident in the estate's Passito wines.

Marsala renaissance - How Marco de Bartoli revitalised a forgotten treasure

The name Marco de Bartoli is inextricably linked with the revitalisation of authentic Marsala. When he returned to the family vineyard in the 1970s, Marsala production was in a deep crisis. Industrial production practices had degraded the once highly prized wine to a mass product that was mainly used as a cooking ingredient.

De Bartoli recognised the immense potential of traditional Marsala and firmly rejected the common practices of the time. Instead of focussing on fast production and additives, he returned to the traditional methods that had once made Marsala famous. His vision was clear: Marsala should once again be valued as a high-quality wine that reflects the essence of its terroir and history.

The Vecchio Samperi, De Bartoli's flagship, epitomises this philosophy perfectly. This unfiltered wine is produced using the traditional solera method, in which younger wines are blended with older ones to ensure complexity and consistency. Unlike commercial Marsalas, no alcohol is added to the Vecchio Samperi - a return to the original Marsala production before British influence in the 18th century.

As a master of Marsala, De Bartoli has created various interpretations of this historic wine. The Vigna la Miccia offers an excellent introduction to this special world of wine and harmonises perfectly with various cheeses, nutty cakes or tiramisu. The mature vintages such as 2004, 1988 and 1987 are characterised by their extraordinary complexity and fascinating variety of aromas.

Unlike many sweet dessert wines, De Bartoli's Marsalas are not primarily characterised by their sweetness, but by their nutty nuances, aromas of dried fruit and their creamy texture. They are fortified wines, similar to Port and Jerez, and are characterised by their excellent ageing potential. Their versatility in combination with food makes them special companions for culinary experiences.

Marco De Bartoli's merit lies not only in the qualitative revitalisation of Marsala, but also in raising awareness of the importance of indigenous grape varieties. His tireless commitment has played a key role in ensuring that Sicilian wines are recognised internationally today and that the island's winegrowing tradition is preserved.

Autochthonous treasures - The portfolio beyond Marsala

Although Marco de Bartoli is primarily known for its Marsalas, the winery's portfolio includes an impressive variety of wines made exclusively from indigenous grape varieties. This focus on indigenous varieties underlines De Bartoli's dedication to Sicilian wine culture and his endeavour to preserve and present its unique characteristics.

The estate's white wines are mainly based on the Grillo, Cataratto and Zibibbo grape varieties. The Grappoli del Grillo, a white wine made from 100% Grillo grapes, is known for its remarkable structure and ageing potential. It reveals the true essence of this historic Sicilian grape variety with its complex flavour and mineral character.

Other notable white wines in the portfolio are Lucido, Vignaverde, Sole e Vento and Pietranera - all wines with a distinct character, straightforward structure and aromatic intensity. They represent the modern interpretation of Sicilian white wine culture without denying its roots.

The estate's "Integer" wines form a special category. With the Integer Grillo and Integer Zibibbo, the De Bartoli winery offers wines fermented on the skins that provide a deep insight into the potential of these grape varieties. These wines are produced with minimal intervention and reflect De Bartoli's philosophy of letting nature speak with respect and understanding.

De Bartoli's commitment to sparkling wine production is also remarkable. His sparkling wines are produced using the classic method, with bottle fermentation and ageing on the lees. It is remarkable that he completely avoids international grape varieties such as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Instead, he uses the local Grillo grape as the basis for these fascinating sparkling wines, which impress with their originality and depth of character.

Under the Bukkuram label, the winery produces exquisite sweet wines from Zibibbo grapes, known as Passito di Pantelleria. For this speciality, the harvested grapes are dried on straw mats for four weeks, resulting in an intense concentration of sugar. However, the resulting wines not only impress with their obvious sweetness, but also offer a multi-layered world of flavours and a concise acid structure that ensures perfect balance.

The Passito wines from De Bartoli capture the essence of the island of Pantelleria: the intense sun, the salty sea breeze and the volcanic soil. They are among the most renowned sweet wines in Italy and have contributed significantly to the winery's international reputation.

Organic viticulture and forward-looking sustainability

Following the death of Marco De Bartoli in 2011, his children Renato, Sebastiano and Giuseppina took over the management of the winery and are continuing the path set by their father. Under their leadership, the winery has continued to develop its practices without neglecting the fundamental principles established by Marco De Bartoli.

The switch to organic viticulture was a natural step in the evolution of the winery. The absence of chemical pesticides and artificial fertilisers not only contributes to the health of the soil, but also allows the vines to express the special characteristics of the terroir even more authentically. For the De Bartoli family, organic farming is not a marketing tool, but a deep conviction and commitment to nature.

Another feature of winemaking at De Bartoli is the use of indigenous yeasts. While many wineries use pure yeasts to achieve consistent results, the De Bartoli family favours spontaneous fermentation with the yeasts naturally occurring on the grapes. This method may be riskier, but results in more complex wines with an unmistakable identity and an authentic expression of their origin.

The De Bartolis also minimise intervention in the cellar. The wines are made with the greatest possible respect for the natural product, with gentle pressing, long maceration times and patient ageing. The use of sulphur is reduced to a minimum, and for some wines, such as the "Integer" lines, it is avoided altogether.

The De Bartoli family has recognised that true sustainability encompasses not only ecological but also cultural aspects. Their commitment to the preservation of indigenous grape varieties and traditional winemaking methods is a significant contribution to the preservation of Sicily's wine heritage. Through their consistent focus on quality, they have proven that tradition and sustainability are not obstacles to excellence, but rather form its foundation.

A visit to the winery offers wine lovers the opportunity to tour the historic cellars and taste the impressive variety of wines. The De Bartoli family's passion and dedication to Sicilian wine culture can be felt in every aspect of the winery - from the careful handling of the vines to the patient ageing of the wines in the historic cellars.

Overall, the Marco De Bartoli winery is a shining example of the successful preservation and revitalisation of Sicily's wine heritage. It remains a beacon of quality and authenticity in a wine world that is all too often characterised by uniformity and compromise. The De Bartoli family has proven that a return to local traditions and unconditional respect for the terroir are the key to timeless, characterful wines that reflect the soul of Sicily in every drop.