Darscho 2020

The Darsho is a single-varietal Chardonnay from the Seewinkel region on Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland. The name refers to a salt varnish of the same name on the lake, of which there are about 40 in Seewinkel. They are hollows formed during the Ice Age, in which water and different salts can be found. The vines were planted between 1980 and 2000 in the sandy soils at the lake. Heinz Velich produces there, in addition to the iconic Tiglat this second outstanding Chardonnay of Austria, which used to be powerful but has since become increasingly fine and elegant. The grapes are harvested by hand at full ripeness, slowly pressed as whole clusters after standing, fermented spontaneously at a relatively warm temperature and aged on full lees in wood for two years.

between gold and copper

The Darsho 2020 At first, it is reminiscent of a champagne of the best provenance and thus of Chardonnay, which was harvested early, but not too early, and somehow oscillates between reduction and oxidation, bringing in some woody notes, but also autolysis notes like brioche. There is a little flint in the attack, then lightly roasted almonds and nuts with said brioche, as well as ripe lemons, salt lemons and candied zest. The wine is also reminiscent of broom, hay and, above all, ripe, crisp apples in both solid and liquid form.

On the palate the Darsho immensely creamy and juicy with lots of ripe fruit and an almost creamy brown-butterscotch component that brings something warm and at the same time also something cool. Despite the richness that the Chardonnay undoubtedly offers, it also has a distinctly fresh and lively vein of acidity combined with a deep minerality that the 40-year-old vines have brought to light. Here you have concentration and density, something silky and creamy, lots of ripe fruit and even more nut butter, also subtle vanilla wood as well as excellent length and piquant saltiness as with Crème caramel au beurre salé. This is classic and timeless like the previous vintage.