The Riesling Doosberg Großes Gewächs 2022 by Peter Jakob Kühn hails from an exposed hilltop site in Oestrich in the Rheingau and displays the crystalline, mineral signature of this Demeter-certified estate – slender on entry, becoming increasingly powerful and energetic on the palate.
Bottler: Winery Peter Jakob Kühn, Mühlstraße 70, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel / Germany
In the glass
Colour
Intense straw yellow.
Nose
Delicate yet intense: herbs, freshly cut hedge, smoke and blossoms, accompanied by lemon zest, grapefruit, pome and stone fruit, as well as a hint of unfermented apple must and tobacco.
Palate
Initially slender and refined, then growing ever more assertive and vibrant – citrus notes, a touch of green herbs and stone fruit, pronounced minerality, fine tension, great vitality and length.
Character
Dry, transparent and lively – a cool, mineral Grosses Gewächs Riesling that remains poised despite its power.
Pairing
Poached or pan-fried fish with a lemon-herb accompaniment, white poultry in a delicate sauce, Asian dishes with lime and fresh herbs.
Notes
Whole bunches are pressed over several hours; the must is spontaneously fermented and the wine aged for 16 months on full lees in traditional Stück and Doppelstück casks; the estate follows Demeter guidelines and largely eschews intervention in the cellar.
Tasting note
Colour & Appearance
Intense straw yellow with clear, vibrant brilliance in the glass.
Nose
Reserved at first, yet possessing a quiet intensity: herbs, freshly cut hedgerow, fine smoke and blossoms. Behind these lie lemon and zest, grapefruit, pome and stone fruit, a hint of unfermented apple must and a subtle tobacco note.
Palate
Initially slender and delicate, then increasingly powerful and pulsating – a wine that builds pressure without becoming heavy. Citrus notes, a touch of green herbs and stone fruit carry it, while a pronounced minerality provides backbone. It drives forward yet remains poised, with great tension and just 11.5% alcohol – dry, wiry, energetic.
Finish
Long, taut and saline-mineral, with a citrus freshness that cleanses the palate and invites the next sip.
Terroir & Origin
The Doosberg – in standard German “Dachsberg” (Badger Hill) – sits at around 120 metres above sea level in Oestrich in the Rheingau. Calcareous loess over terrace sediments and marine sands of the Alzey Formation, interspersed with Taunus quartz: a soil that lends this Riesling its cool, taut clarity. Kühn’s parcels are exposed on the crest with constant wind – ideal conditions for healthy vines and even ripening.
Grape Variety & Vinification
Pure Riesling, harvested by hand. The whole bunches were gently pressed over several hours, and the must fermented spontaneously. The wine then matured 16 months on full lees in traditional Stück and Doppelstück casks (1,200 and 2,400 litres) – an élevage that imparts depth without allowing oak flavours to dominate.
Food Pairings
A versatile food wine: steamed turbot with herb butter, pike-perch on celeriac purée, pan-roasted Hokkaido pumpkin or saddle of veal with artichokes. Also a fine choice with white asparagus or mature mountain cheese.
Special Features
The Peter Jakob Kühn estate, family-owned since 1786 and now run by the twelfth generation, farms according to Demeter guidelines – once ridiculed in the conservative Rheingau, now widely respected. The result is a Grosses Gewächs of crystalline transparency: no heavy oak, no winemaking artefact, only place and vintage. A Riesling that demonstrates why the Doosberg ranks among the finest sites the Rheingau has to offer – already exciting today, with great ageing potential.
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