Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru "Île des Vergelesses" rouge 2017
A biodynamic Pinot Noir from one of the village’s finest vineyard sites, which is of Grand Cru quality. The domaine has been Demeter-certified since 2011 and eschews fining and filtration.
Red-fruited with red and blackcurrants, cherries, spicy notes and subtle wood; still reserved and shy.
Palate
Warmer than the nose suggests, with juicy cherries and forest berries, round, almost caressing tannins, restrained acidity and an underlying minerality in the long, warm-fruited finish.
Character
An elegant Burgundy that still needs time to develop, with a silky texture and mineral depth that rewards patience.
Pairing
Pinot risotto with wild mushrooms and duck breast, grouse wrapped in bacon with glazed apple wedges, or almond and date couscous with beetroot.
Notes
From the 9.41-hectare Premier Cru vineyard Île de Vergelesses, with pebbly, calcareous red marl, iron-rich and east-facing. The domaine works with horses in the vineyards, uses whole-bunch fermentation and minimal sulphur; unlike the unsulphured version, this wine would benefit from further ageing.
Tasting note
Colour & appearance
Violet-red – a colour that promises youth and hints at depth.
Nose
Initially red-fruited and restrained: currants dominate, first red, then increasingly black, joined by cherries. A fine spice and a touch of wood frame the picture – overall still shy, yet showing promising clarity.
Palate
Noticeably warmer than the nose suggests: cherries and wild berries lend juiciness, the fruit is round and inviting. The tannins appear almost caressing, while the acidity remains discreet. Underneath, a fine minerality runs through the wine, giving it lift and support.
Finish
Long and warmly fruity – the mineral thread persists, fading only slowly.
Terroir & origin
The 9.41-hectare Premier Cru vineyard site Île des Vergelesses is regarded as the finest in the village – offering Grand Cru-level quality. Its terroir resembles that of the Corton hill: pebbly, calcareous red marl with a high iron content defines the soils. Domaine Chandon de Briailles, family-owned since 1834, farms its 13.7 hectares across Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton entirely with horses – the only estate in Burgundy to do so completely.
Grape variety & vinification
Pinot Noir from vines averaging 40 years old, some reaching 80, on an east-facing slope. Siblings François and Claude de Nicolay have farmed biodynamically since 2005 (Demeter-certified since 2011), eschewing fining and filtration. This cuvée was minimally sulphured – unlike the estate’s unsulphured counterpart.
Food pairings
Pinot risotto with wild mushrooms and duck breast – the earthy notes of the dish mirror the wine’s minerality. Partridge wrapped in bacon with glazed apple wedges also works beautifully: the wine’s fruit embraces the sweetness of the apple, while the tannins stand up to the bacon. For a vegetarian option, almond and date couscous with beetroot is equally convincing.
Special features
A wine that needs time: while the unsulphured version already offers immediate drinking pleasure, this Île des Vergelesses deserves further ageing. The combination of biodynamic viticulture, horse-drawn ploughing and the historic 12th-century Cistercian cellar yields a Burgundy with a distinctive signature – restrained in oak, precise in fruit, with the potential to evolve over decades.
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