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Clos du Moulin aux Moines

Located in the heart of the Côte de Beaune, the Clos du Moulin aux Moines vineyard continues its great past. In Auxey-Duresses, the estate and its vineyards are located between the famous villages of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Since 2008, the estate has been under new ownership and more focused on quality wine than ever before. Since then, the accomplished Willy Roulandes has been at the helm. The winery found its home in a more than 1000-year-old monastery and makes use of the conditions of the cool old cellars.

Today, Clos du Moulin aux Moines cultivates vineyards in Pommard, Monthelie and Auxey-Duresses. In the vineyard, they work strictly according to biodynamic methods. This conversion shows impressive success in the vitality of the vines and the intact ecosystem. The quality of a wine comes from the vineyard. Accordingly, they work intensively there. By hand or with the help of farm horses. And it is precisely this that needs to be captured in the cellar.

In the Burgundian sense, the work here is classical. Fermentation and maceration of the reds in large wooden vats or in concrete. The whites are fermented in small wooden barrels. For storage in the barrel after fermentation, in addition to small oak barrels, larger barrels around the 1000l mark are increasingly used. New barriques are also rarely used. One would like to preserve the clear, floral and fruity aromas of the wines and not overwhelm them with roasted aromas. Depending on the wine and the vintage, they mature for 12 to 18 months in the barrels. The adjusting screws Willy turns are not huge, but leave clear traces in the quality and potential of the wines.

Among the reds, the two monopoly sites would be particularly noteworthy. The Pommard Clos de Orgelot produces spicy, fleshy Pinot Noir from a site of only one hectare. The vineyard at the monastery, the Clos du Moulin aux Moines was already planted in the 1950s. The old vines are just getting into top form here. They also produce a Chardonnay from the same monopoly site. The site borders Meursault to the east, so a stylistic parallel must be drawn urgently. Paradoxically, this great winery is still an insider tip.

Text and wine expertise: © Marian Henß.