Weissburgunder Leithaberg DAC 2014

The wine presents itself in bright straw yellow with golden reflections clear and shiny in the glass.

If still waters run deep, this is the Mariana Trench of white Burgundies. That mischievous grin behind a restrained first appearance already hints at aromatic splendor and detail-oriented precision. Initially introverted and somewhat reductive, this wine demands thought, air, patience and a big glass to reveal its true nature. After some time of youthful rambunctiousness, floral scents of white flowers and yellow pit fruit decipher themselves, carried by the bright delicate smoke of toasted nuts. Candied ginger, turmeric and kumquats meet chamomile blossoms, fennel seeds and hay flower. No trace of maturity at first, only a tempting butterscotch gives depth and volume.

The stony subsoil, which sets the stage for this fruit play and already announces itself in the nose, applies its power unagitatedly but emphatically on the palate and lets the wine shine through a long sparse finish. On the palate, the 2014 Weissburgunder Leithaberg from Heike and Gernot Heinrich is as stylish as it is straightforward and full of subtlety. It wins through length instead of breadth and impressively proves that it and limestone are best friends.