Riesling Hallgarten Alte Reben 2023

Wine Description for Riesling Hallgarten Alte Reben 2023 by Peter Jakob Kühn

On the steep slopes of the Rheingau, where the history of German winemaking is deeply inscribed in the slate-rich soil, Peter Jakob Kühn cultivates his Riesling vines with an almost monastic devotion. The Hallgarten Alte Reben 2023 embodies the unadulterated language of terroir – an eloquent dialogue between the austere phyllite slate and the aged vines whose roots have penetrated deep into this mineral narrative.

Visual Impression

In the glass, a luminous straw yellow presents itself, threaded with subtle green reflections that shimmer like sunlight through young foliage. The crystalline clarity of the wine mirrors the precision with which Kühn works in the vineyard – transparent, unadulterated, with the purity of a mountain stream.

Nose

The first encounter with the nose reveals a fascinating restraint – typical of a young, biodynamically produced Riesling from the Kühn house. Behind an initial hint of reduction, a multifaceted panorama slowly unfolds: fresh lime zest and unripe pear are framed by a pronounced stoniness that unmistakably bears the hallmark of the Hallgarten vineyard sites.

With a little air, the aromatic spectrum expands into a fascinating herb garden: lemon balm and chervil dance with kaffir lime leaves, whilst hints of fennel seeds and pea shoots establish a subtle connection to the soil. It is as if one had taken a walk through a dew-fresh herb garden laid out on a slate slope.

Palate

On the palate, the wine demonstrates impressive structural precision. The vibrant acidity – razor-sharp at 7.0 g/l – cuts through the slender body like a scalpel, never appearing aggressive. With only 3.4 g/l residual sugar, the unvarnished truth of the vintage and terroir reveals itself here.

What particularly distinguishes this wine is its tactile dimension – a phenolic texture carried not by fruit but by minerality. The wine challenges the palate, demands attention and rewards with a complexity that far exceeds its price point. Its taut structure and saline minerality recall the austerity of the steep slate slopes, whilst the 12.5% alcohol is perfectly integrated and lends the wine a self-assured lightness.

General Information

The grapes for this remarkable Riesling come from various parcels around Hallgarten – Hendelberg, Jungfer, Schönhell and Würzgarten – situated at impressive elevations of 180 to 350 metres. The old vines are deeply rooted in phyllite slate and quartzite, which gives the wine its unmistakable mineral signature.

In the cellar, Kühn follows a path of minimal intervention: the selectively hand-picked grapes are gently pressed as whole bunches over several hours. Spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts and ten months of ageing on full lees in large wooden barrels and stainless steel tanks until the end of August 2024 give the wine time to develop its full complexity.

Food Pairing Recommendations

The taut structure and herbal-spicy notes make this Riesling an ideal companion for Nordic and Japanese cuisine. Smoked char with dill sauce would underscore the mineral qualities of the wine, whilst hamachi sashimi with yuzu dressing would highlight its citric notes. Asparagus with brown butter and lemon thyme or an herb risotto with young goat’s cheese would also elegantly complement the vegetable nuances of the wine.