A filigree Spätburgunder from the Ahr that possesses depth and substance despite only 11.5% ABV. From the south-facing steep slope with slate and greywacke soils, it brings dark fruit, floral spice and Burgundian finesse to the glass.
Cassis, dark raspberry, cherry and blackthorn, overlaid with rose and violet; beneath them stone, lichen, tar, liquorice, pepper as well as hints of forest floor, fallen leaves and warm peat.
Palate
Crisp fruit and lively acidity, juicy and finely spiced; supple, fine-grained tannins, clear and pure expression – light and buoyant, yet at the same time powerful and substantial.
Character
Light-footed but by no means lightweight: a taut, mineral red wine with radiance and Burgundian elegance that reveals its full potential after a little air.
Pairing
Pairs wonderfully with duck breast with cherries, mushroom dishes such as porcini risotto or delicate loin of lamb in a herb crust.
Notes
Organically and biodynamically farmed steep slope, spontaneous fermentation in open fermenters, maturation in used Stück and Halbstück casks over two winters, no chaptalisation and only minimal sulphur addition before bottling – craftsmanship without compromise from a vineyard site with gradients of up to 70%.
Tasting note
Colour & appearance
Transparent garnet red, pale at the rim – a glass that visually declares from the outset: finesse, not opulence, is what counts here.
Nose
Dark and multi-layered. The typical “Baltes reduction” cradles fruit of cassis, dark raspberry, cherry and sloe. Roses and violets hover above, while stone, lichen, a touch of tar, liquorice, pepper and sea buckthorn lie beneath. Hints of forest floor, fallen leaves and warm peat complete a bouquet that only fully opens after a little air.
Palate
Remarkably substantial at just 11.5% vol.: crisp fruit, lively acidity, fine spice, juicy drive. The tannins are supple and fine-grained, the wine clear, pure and utterly straight-laced. It achieves the rare feat of being light and buoyant yet powerful at once. Once the initial reductive notes have dissipated, a magnificent Spätburgunder reveals itself.
Finish
Taut and mineral, with a lingering echo of dark fruit and cool-toned stone. Clean, without any heaviness.
Terroir & origin
The Dernauer Pfarrwingert lies at 130 to 200 metres, with a consistently favourable slope gradient and south-facing aspect. It is characterised by weathered greywacke and slate soils with clay slate components. Slate stores the warmth of the day, while the cool nights of the Ahr Valley preserve freshness – the foundation for Burgundian finesse with a character all its own.
Grape variety & vinification
Spätburgunder, dry. The grapes are meticulously sorted and fermented spontaneously in open stainless-steel vats. Ageing takes place in a deliberately reductive style in used Stück and Halbstück casks over two winters. Chaptalisation has long since been abandoned; the only addition is minimal sulphur before bottling.
Food recommendations
An equally light yet substantial choice with duck breast with cherry jus, saddle of venison, mushroom risotto or grilled tuna.
Special features
Julia and Benedikt Baltes pick early and ripe rather than late and opulent – the result is a Spätburgunder of Burgundian lightness that proves low alcohol and depth are no contradiction. A wine that, like the entire estate, survived the 2021 floods and tastes bolder than ever.
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