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Château de Béru
The majestic Château de Béru vineyard building - a jewel of Renaissance architecture - rises up in eastern Chablis. Under the leadership of Athénais de Béru, the winery has developed into a shining star in the Burgundy sky. The vineyards, including the impressive Clos Béru monopollage, are cultivated biodynamically. At an altitude of 300 metres, where the characteristic Kimmeridge limestone dominates, the result today is mineral-precise Chardonnays of exceptional finesse. Winemaker portrait
More about Château de Béru
The first thing that impresses visitors to the Château de Béru is the timeless elegance of the Renaissance estate, which rises majestically above the vineyards of eastern Chablis. However, the architectural beauty of the château, with its rare 16th century sundial and impressive Renaissance portal, is only the outer shell of an even more fascinating story of rebirth, oenological precision and uncompromising quality philosophy.
Renaissance of a sleeping giant
The history of Château de Béru is closely interwoven with the ups and downs of Burgundian viticulture. The phylloxera catastrophe at the end of the 19th century was a dramatic turning point here, as it was for many other wine estates in the region. The de Béru family was forced to give up winegrowing - a painful decision for a house with centuries of winegrowing tradition.
The turning point came in the late 1980s, when Èric and Laurence de Béru took the courageous decision to recultivate the fallow vineyards. It was a challenge of enormous proportions: the vineyards had to be replanted, old vineyard walls restored and forgotten knowledge revitalised. However, the real renaissance began in 2004 when her daughter Athénais joined the family winery.
Athénais not only brought fresh energy, but also a clear vision. With an analytical eye, she recognised the extraordinary potential of the vineyards and began to systematically develop them. From the very beginning, her approach was characterised by a deep respect for the terroir - an attitude that is reflected in every aspect of the vineyard work and vinification.
In harmony with nature
The conversion to organic and later biodynamic cultivation under Athénais' management marked another milestone in the history of the winery. Demeter certification was never the primary goal, but rather the logical consequence of a deeply rooted conviction: That exceptional wines can only be produced where the vineyard is understood and cared for as a living organism.
Working with horses instead of heavy machinery is more than just romantic nostalgia. Gentle soil cultivation prevents compaction, promotes aeration and preserves the fragile microbiology of the soil. Extensive greening between the rows of vines and the targeted promotion of beneficial insects create a complex ecological balance. This near-natural cultivation enables the Chardonnay to drive its roots deep into the calcareous subsoil and to optimally utilise the mineral components of the terroir.
The biodynamic preparations are made with meticulous care and applied according to the cosmic calendar. This is not about an esoteric world view, but about the practical experience that these methods strengthen the vitality of the vines and promote the terroir expression of the wines.
The terroir mosaic
The centrepiece of the winery is undoubtedly the Clos Béru - a five-hectare monopole enclosed by a historic wall dating back to the 13th century. The special nature of this site only becomes apparent on closer inspection: situated at an altitude of 300 metres, the vineyard benefits from a unique combination of exposure, microclimate and geological subsoil.
The Kimmeridge limestone that dominates here, formed around 150 million years ago from the deposits of a primeval sea, gives the wines their characteristic minerality. The fossilised oyster shells and microscopic marine life that permeate this limestone contribute to the complex supply of minerals to the vines. The high altitude also ensures a longer growing season and allows the grapes to develop their flavours slowly and fully at moderate temperatures.
In addition to Clos Béru, the winery also cultivates selected Premier Cru sites, which add further facets to the portfolio. Each of these sites has its own character, characterised by subtle differences in exposure, soil depth and microclimatic conditions. These differences are emphasised through precise vineyard work and separate vinification, resulting in a fascinating terroir mosaic.
The art of winemaking
The philosophy of minimal intervention continues in the cellar. The grapes are carefully selected and gently pressed. Fermentation takes place spontaneously with natural yeasts, allowing the microbial biodiversity of the vineyard to continue in the wine. Classic ageing in small wooden barrels is complemented by innovative approaches: mash-fermented white wines reveal new facets of Chardonnay, while cuvées without added sulphur emphasise pure terroir expression.
Particular attention is paid to the maturing phase of the wines. The optimum time for racking and bottling is determined through regular tastings. This is not about technical parameters, but about the delicate balance between strength and finesse, between primary fruit and mineral structure.
The result is Chardonnays of captivating clarity and precision. Often restrained and cool in their youth, they develop a fascinating complexity as they mature in the bottle. Citrus fruits, white flowers and salty minerality combine to create a multi-layered flavour profile. The acidity structure is precise and gives the wines their characteristic tension and length.
At their best, the wines of Château de Béru display an almost crystalline purity, paired with a fascinating depth and length. They are wines that are not only drinkable, but also thought-provoking - about the power of the terroir, the importance of sustainable vineyard work and the endless possibilities of Chardonnay. They are living testimony to the fact that great wines are not made, but created - from the respectful dialogue between man and nature.
The story of Château de Béru is not yet finished. With each vintage, new insights are gained, new nuances of the terroir are discovered. It is a story of courage, vision and the tireless pursuit of quality - a story that continues in every glass of these exceptional wines.
Text: Living Wines / Mitya Taits
© Photos: Château de Béru Winery