Nit de Nin “Coma d’en Romeu” 2017 — Familia Nin Ortiz

The wine is a rich ruby red with a violet rim and opaque core, clear and bright in the glass.

This wine, made from Grenache Noir vines over 70 years old, or rather Garnatxa Negra, is the Catalan epitome of the Burgundian "Grand Cru" concept. Thus, it rather conveys the rustic origin of its, mainly by slate marked, origin site, than the fruit and chocolate play of other representatives of the variety.

Of course, the canvas on which the image is created is made of bittersweet cocoa spiked with blackberries, dried dates and figs, and goji berries. Then, however, its spice comes right into play. Cubeb pepper and allspice mingle with pumpernickel, juniper ham and the subtle smokiness of a single burnt match.

Have you ever tried to lift a harp?

It is massive; and yet its sound is angelic.

What shines in his fragrance full of power and strength, is filled with contrasting, rarely felt so, tenderness, almost fragility on the palate. As if the 2017 Nit de Nin Coma d'en Romeu by Ester Nin Lloret was literally sure of itself, it does not need to carry anything in front of it. Through a fine tannin wall of tissue paper, you listen spellbound to the Grenache as it fervently tells stories of its homeland. Full of meticulous clarity and unobtrusive precision, it balances on a tightrope of acidity, fullness and bitterness.

Since it has time entirely on its side, it can blithely ignore it, for it is already eminently enjoyable, but at the same time will magnificently enrich the decades to come.

That's Grand Cru.