Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl 2014

Radiant golden yellow

The 2014 Clos Windsbuhl Pinot Gris from Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace starts impressively on the nose. Tarte Tatin and baked quince dominate the picture. But sourdough bread and butter crumble also vie intensively for aromatic supremacy. Candied ginger and candied orange and lemon zest form a second intense level. Turmeric and saffron are delicately hinted at. With all these loud aromas, however, it always seems cool and linear. With increasing oxygen and rising temperature in the glass, mango, papaya and passion fruit are also revealed. The oriental spiciness now appears much more intense. Dates, dried figs and local dried fruit complement this idea congenially.

On the palate, it goes straight for the whole thing. The foundation of this wine is a firm framework of acidity, abundant fruit and a lot of finesse. Clos Windsbuhl presents itself stony, sparse and not even remotely marked by sweetness or concentration. The fruit is clearly noticeable and roughly corresponds to the impressions of the nose. But it has so much drinkability and elegance that the fruit can hardly build up. A crazy minerality has an additional cooling effect and sets further points of contrast to the fruit. It stretches out enormously and seems nailed down in the aftertaste. The aromas go round and round for minutes.