Gewürztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2017
The Gewürztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2017 from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht hails from Europe’s steepest vineyard site on volcanic greywacke – a luscious Alsatian of smoky minerality, powerful texture and rare vintage format.
Bottler: Domaine Zind Humbrecht, 4 Route de Colmar, 68230 Turckheim / France
In the glass
Colour
Medium straw yellow, clear and bright.
Nose
Initially flinty-smoky with a note of gunpowder that opens up quickly; behind it, grapefruit, apricot, stony freshness and only subtle hints of nutmeg and rose petal – distinctly cooler and more mineral than the classic Gewürztraminer bouquet.
Palate
Powerful and creamy on the palate, almost viscous, with pale yellow citrus and stone fruit notes alongside a touch of vanilla; despite low acidity, it displays palpable tension, silky tannin structure and marked salinity that sustain the drinking flow; 26 g/l residual sugar round off the luscious style.
Character
A Gewürztraminer of unusual finesse: its volcanic roots lend weightlessness, transparency and profound minerality to this opulent variety – a wine that expresses singularity and precision rather than opulence.
Pairing
Bouillabaisse with rouille, venison shoulder with caramelised apple wedges and black walnuts, or pear risotto with Époisses.
Notes
According to Olivier Humbrecht, the 2017 vintage ranks among the three finest since the estate was founded in 1959 – frost and hail reduced yields to just 19 hl/ha. The biodynamically farmed (Demeter-certified) terroir of volcanic ash from the extinct Molkenrain, with clay-rich soils above the Thur, bestows upon the wine its remarkable density and saline signature.
Tasting note
Colour & appearance
Medium straw yellow, clear and bright in the glass.
Nose
Initially a flinty, gunpowder-like reductive note that quickly dissipates. Behind it lies the marriage of volcanic rock and grape variety: stony, smoky, fresh, with grapefruit and apricot. The typical muscat and rose petal nuances remain remarkably subtle — as if the volcano had wrested the Gewürztraminer’s opulence from it.
Palate
Powerful and present, with citrus fruits and pale stone fruit. Creamy, almost viscous, with a hint of vanilla — yet at the same time acid-driven with palpable pressure. The silky tannin structure and a pronounced saltiness provide drive and precision. 26 grams of residual sugar never taste sweet here, but rather seamlessly integrated.
Finish
Long, mineral, with persistent salty tension — a finale more reminiscent of great Rieslings than of a classic Traminer.
Terroir & origin
The Rangen de Thann, with its 68 per cent gradient, is the steepest vineyard site in Alsace. Its greywacke originates from the ash of the extinct Molkenrain volcano; this mineral-rich soil yields high dry extract and that distinctive saltiness found nowhere else quite so pronounced. The two small Gewürztraminer parcels lie in the sheltered lower section of the Clos Saint Urbain, directly above the Thur river, on deeper, clay-rich soils — ideal for this sensitive variety.
Grape variety & vinification
Pure Gewürztraminer. According to Olivier Humbrecht, the 2017 vintage ranks among the three finest since the estate was founded in 1959 — frost and hail reduced the harvest to a mere 19 hl/ha. Harvesting in the Rangen concluded on 26 September. Certified Demeter biodynamic farming, as practised across the entire domaine since 2002.
Food pairings
Bouillabaisse with rouille — the wine’s saltiness mirrors the sea. Roe deer shoulder with caramelised apple wedges and black walnuts complements its spice and residual sweetness. Bold yet successful: pear risotto with Époisses.
Special characteristics
A Gewürztraminer that defies expectations of its variety: instead of opulent rose and lychee abundance, it offers transparency, smoke and volcanic coolness. Its ethereally light body combined with full power is the rare hallmark of this terroir — a wine that sings rather than boasts.
