Vinothek Riesling trocken “Fass Severin” (Gefüllt in 2022) 1997

The Nikolaihof is the oldest winery in Austria, with a history dating back to 63 AD. After secularisation at the end of the 19th century, the farm passed into the ownership of the Saahs family, and in 2005 Nikolaus Saahs took over the management. Since 1971, the Nikolaihof has been working according to biodynamic principles, which resulted in Demeter certification. Since then, it has been called nettle liquid manure, valerian drops, horsetail tea and specially prepared preparations instead of herbicide, pesticide or fungicide.

The barrel Severin is one of the barrels decorated with wood carvings from the old Roman cellar of the winery, in which the reserve wines for the late and vinotheque fillings mature. It is dedicated to St. Severin, who lived towards the end of the 4th century of the Roman Empire and came from Mautern.

There are two bottlings from the 1997 vintage, the first of which was already filled in 2014 as a vinotheque. For the second filling, the 3300 litre barrel Severin was intended, which, by the way, is also the name of the youngest born of the Saah family. The wine was filled in spring 2022.

Straw yellow with brilliant reflections, radiant and clear.

The nose of the 1997 Fass Severin vom Nikolaihof looks back into the aromatic past of this wine like the James Webb telescope and sums it up in the glass to what it is today - with the best promises for the future.

What took 25 years to become what it is today must be met with sufficient time. Caraffed in good time, preferably one or two days before drinking, universal glasses are recommended for precision or Pinot glasses for the broad aromatic display on the palate. Since the 97 Severin does not shine with opulence, but with finesse and elegance, I choose the universal glass. On the nose, it speaks of maturity, but without notes of ageing and seems far younger than it actually is. Elderflower, acacia and lime blossom float above the green apricot, decorated with lemon balm and linseed oil. Besides discreet dried fruit, it does not rely on fruit as a leitmotif, but forms a multi-layered conglomerate of aromas that exudes a tremendously lively freshness. Tasted over three days, the wine showed itself aromatically in constant change, but always unique and great.

On the nose, it impressively proves that the best wine is not always the most powerful, but the most subtle. With a multi-layered, filigree structure, it is uncompromisingly dry on the nose with zero fruit, except for the extract of dried green apricots. With its creamy melt, it appears salty on the palate with slightly resinous accents and distinctive notes of ripeness, which give it its aromatic edginess. The noble tannin persists on the palate and has a spicy, animating effect, the acidity is highly refined and long-swinging until the saline finish. Tartly contoured, it is richly extracted on the palate despite its sparse nature, with sublimely silky richness, enormous aromatic compression and high vibration in the cathedral reverberation.