Years ago, in faraway Galicia, in the north of Spain, Robustiano Fariña decided to start his winery. Bodegas y Viñedos Attis to name. It is located in Val do Salnés in the heart of the Rías Baixas. Now Robustiano's children have founded a second winery: Sangarida It is not in the Rías Baixas, but it is also in Galicia, namely in the Bierzo. Bierzo is one of the great terroirs rediscovered in the last 30 years, producing a special class of wines from autochthonous varieties such as Mencía, Godello and Doña Blanca, and from vineyards that are mostly ancient.
The idea came about because the Fariñas' mother came from El Bierzo and the family had contacts there. When the opportunity arose in 2019 to open a winery there, they seized it and chose a name that would fit Attis, and decided on Sangarida. The labels go with the morbid charm of the legend. The winery is run by Lía Fariña, with the active support of Jean-François Hébrard, who has been advising Bodegas Attis for a long time and has himself worked with the Quinta de la Quietud leads a winery that is also in the programme at Lebendige Weine.
El Bierzo and Sangarida
In recent decades, a whole series of wine-growing regions in Galicia have been plucked out of oblivion. This has a lot to do with the success of the Rías Baixas, where it was realised that the leading grape variety there, Albariño, could unleash an entire region and offer prospects. The same has gradually happened with Valdeorras, Ribeiro, Ribera Sacra and above all with Bierzo. The growing region there is a veritable treasure trove.
On the one hand, there is an excellent climate, which is determined by the Atlantic Ocean and the low mountain ranges surrounding the Bierzo. And then there are often ferruginous, calcareous and slaty soils. Often, ancient vines are rooted there, which were not infrequently planted 100 years ago.
Sangarida can also benefit from vineyards, some of which were planted in 1901 and 1910. With the upswing of this region, which is very closely linked to the special character of the red Mencía, but increasingly also to the white Godello, it is worthwhile to practise organic top viticulture there, which can be successful even if these vineyards only yield small quantities
Mencía, Godello & the Doña Blanca
The red Mencía yields two juicy dark red wines at Sangarida. The entry-level wine is dark-fruited, round and characterised by fresh yeast, is only aged briefly in stainless steel and is the Bierzo version of a bistro wine.
The Pico Tuerto on the other hand, is already what you can call a classic Mencía. It comes from said ancient vines and combines a dark fruit with fine spice and cool and stony components, impressing with its fine-grained tannin and a deep minerality.
The Mencía vines were grown at that time together with the white, originally Portuguese Doña Blanca planted. From this grape variety, Sangarida produces the Cuvée La Yegua with Godello, which are fermented together in equal parts.
La Yegua stands alongside the equally high-class, elegant, demanding and powerful single-vineyard Godello named La Tarea.
Winemaker Lía Fariña complements these two wines aged in wood with a young, exceedingly fresh and juicy GodelloThis wine, like the entry-level Mencía, was aged only briefly in stainless steel on the fine lees.
Text and wine expertise: Christoph Raffelt.