From Porrera, it takes a good half hour by jeep before you've made the daring journey up to Mas d'en Caçador. The vineyard is completely isolated on the border of Porrera and Gratallops. At an altitude of around 650 metres, it is one of the highest sites in Priorat, from where you can enjoy views over the entire area. The 80 to 110 year old low Garnatxa, Garnatxa Pelluda and Cariñena vines are planted on pure Llicorella iron slate terraces, which are farmed with mules. The hand-harvested wine is fermented spontaneously and aged for 16 months in 2,700-liter barrels. This absolutely exceptional vineyard of three hectares was taken over by Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz in 2004.
dark, almost black purple
If you have followed Mas d'en Caçador over the years, then it becomes increasingly clear what excellent vineyard work is taking place in this so extraordinary vineyard; because there is a reason why the alcohol values have decreased by more than one percent over the past three years. And indeed, even with the nose, you can sense that the wine has become fresher once again in the 2018 vintage - for all the concentration, opulence and dark power that this wine continues to display, of course. It's a bit like taking a slab of black slate, rubbing it wet and then topping it with ripe plums, blackberries, blackcurrants and black cherries, with bay and cinnamon, pepper, clove and allspice, and rolling it all around and letting it sit until it becomes one. The wine needs about that much time in the glass until it finds itself. Then a stony coolness creeps in at some point, also a little smoke, and an impressive depth is formed.
This wine is pure Hedonsimus. It offers plenty of everything that Priorat has to offer, but never becomes too lush, but always remains in balance, always in the freshness, despite the ripeness of the dark fruit. Again, there are plenty of blackberries, black cherries, damsons and cassis, plus cranberries and a hint of sloe, further charcoal, violets and hoisin sauce. The tannin is powerful but ripe. Of course, it is still blood young and should be given time. But even a few hours in the decanter will help. The sweetness of the fruit is in precise balance with the acidity, which is accompanied by a stunningly vibrant minerality that these ancient vines draw from the Llicorella soil. It is a wine of stunning depth and power, length and inner peace and balance.
Food recommendations by Christoph Raffelt
- Oven leg of lamb spiked with herbs and garlic with roasted peppers
- Grilled seafood salad with radicchio and black olives
- Saffron rice with rabbit and piment d'Espelette
Familia Nin Ortiz
Priorat & Montsant
Familia Nin Ortiz, Polígon 6 Parcel-la 288, 43730 Falset-Tarragona / Spain