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Burgenland, Austria’s easternmost federal state, has developed over the past three decades from a sleepy wine region into one of Europe’s most dynamic and fascinating terroirs. This transformation is not merely remarkable, but genuinely revolutionary in its significance for the Austrian and international wine scene.
Terroir and Climatic Conditions
The Pannonian climate of Burgenland – characterised by hot, dry summers and cold winters – combined with diverse soil structures creates a unique terroir. Lake Neusiedl, Europe’s westernmost steppe lake, functions as an important temperature regulator and moisture provider. The soils vary from the limestone-rich vineyard sites of Leithaberg through the slate soils of Eisenberg to the sandy, partly gravelly soils surrounding Lake Neusiedl.
This diversity enables a broad palette of wine styles, from fresh, mineral-driven white wines to complex, age-worthy red wines. Particularly noteworthy is the region’s ability to bring both indigenous varieties such as Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt as well as international cultivars like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to full ripeness.
The Biodynamic Revolution
A key element in Burgenland’s quality revolution is the growing turn towards biodynamic and natural viticulture methods. These practices, based on the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, go far beyond organic cultivation. They view the vineyard as a holistic ecosystem and take cosmic rhythms into account when working in the vineyard and cellar.
Pioneers such as Gernot and Heike Heinrich as well as the Meinklang family have demonstrated that biodynamic methods not only promote vine health and biodiversity, but can also lead to wines of extraordinary vitality and terroir authenticity. The use of preparations such as horn manure and horn silica, the observation of the lunar calendar in vineyard work, and the promotion of a closed farm cycle are just some of the practices these winemakers employ.
Portraits of Our Outstanding Wineries
Clemens Kutzler
Clemens Krutzler embodies the innovative future of Burgenland winemaking. As the son of a traditional winemaking family in Deutsch-Schützen, he skilfully combines the heritage of his ancestors with fresh ideas. His guiding principle „Our focus lies exclusively on the highest quality and unique character“ is reflected in every aspect of his work.
Krutzler’s wines are characterised by a remarkable balance between classical Blaufränkisch structure and modern interpretation. Since 2020, he has been experimenting with an exciting project that focuses on the local grape varieties Blaufränkisch and Welschriesling. In doing so, he relies on original natural winemaking techniques, such as varying maceration times for different aroma and texture profiles; sur-lie ageing in used oak barrels for additional complexity, as well as a fundamentally low-intervention approach to preserve the authentic terroir character.
Heinrich
Gernot and Heike Heinrich are among the pioneers of biodynamic winemaking in Burgenland. Their winery in Gols, on the eastern shore of Lake Neusiedl, produces an impressive range of wines – from fresh white wines to complex red wine cuvées.
Particularly noteworthy is their «Pannobile» – a cuvée of Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt, which can be considered the archetype of modern Burgenland red wine. The Heinrichs have also made a splash with their «Freyheit» series – natural wines, characterised by skin contact. These wines display remarkable purity and vibrancy, underscoring the potential of the biodynamic approach.
Meinklang
The Meinklang winery, run by the Michlits family, is a shining example of holistic, biodynamic agriculture. Their operation encompasses not only vineyards but also arable farming and livestock, which enables a closed farm cycle.
Meinklang’s wines are often surprises for the classical wine lover. Their work with classic but also partly forgotten grape varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, St. Laurent or even Blauer Portugieser leads to wines of remarkable originality. Particularly fascinating is their «Graupert» – a Pinot Gris from uncut wild-growing vines, which reveals an entirely new dimension of this often underestimated grape variety.
Moric
Roland Velich from Moric has turned heads in the international wine world with his purist interpretations of Blaufränkisch. Velich, who spent his formative years in Burgundy, transfers the concept of „Vin de Terroir“ to Burgenland. His wines, particularly the vineyard selections from Neckenmarkt and Lutzmannsburg, display a precision and finesse that one would scarcely have expected from Blaufränkisch.
Velich’s minimalist approach in the cellar – spontaneous fermentation, extended ageing in large, used wooden barrels – allows the different terroirs to express themselves fully. His wines possess remarkable ageing potential and develop a fascinating complexity over time, reminiscent of great Burgundies.
Nittnaus
Hans and Anita Nittnaus were instrumental in the quality revolution in Burgenland. Their winery in Gols produces a broad range of wines, but it is above all their red wines from the Leithaberg DAC that gain international recognition.
The wines from Leithaberg are characterised by a distinctive minerality, which is attributable to the calcareous soils. Nittnaus‘ interpretation of Blaufränkisch from Leithaberg often displays a fascinating combination of red fruit, spicy notes and an almost saline minerality. Their work has been instrumental in demonstrating the potential of these unique terroirs.
Velich
Heinz Velich has made a name for himself with his magnificent Chardonnays, which rank among Austria’s finest white wines. His winery in Apetlon, on the eastern shore of Lake Neusiedl, produces wines of remarkable concentration and complexity.
Velich’s flagship, the Chardonnay „Tiglat“, comes from one of Burgenland’s finest white wine vineyard sites. These wines are characterised by an impressive structure, complex aromas of ripe fruits, nuts and subtle toasted notes, as well as distinctive minerality. They possess remarkable ageing potential and can develop over decades.
A Glimpse into the Future
Burgenland stands at an exciting point in its development. The region has made enormous progress over the past decades, but there is still considerable potential to unlock. The increasing focus on terroir expression, the growing importance of biodynamic and natural winemaking methods, and experimentation with forgotten grape varieties all point towards a promising future.
At the same time, climate change presents winemakers with new challenges. Rising temperatures and increasing drought require adaptations in both vineyard and cellar. Some winemakers are already experimenting with heat-resistant grape varieties or relocating their vineyards to higher, cooler sites.
Burgenland has developed into one of Europe’s most exciting wine regions. The combination of unique terroir, innovative winemakers and an openness to new approaches makes this region a must-visit for any serious wine enthusiast. It will be fascinating to observe how this dynamic wine region continues to evolve in the coming years.
Burgenland at Living Wines is represented by the following wineries: